The B1 Off-camera Flash FAQ

Written by Fredrik Franzén on . Posted in Off-camera Flash

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Profoto B1 off camera flash David Bicho 2 600x450 The B1 Off camera Flash FAQ

©David Bicho

We keep receiving  questions about the new B1 off-camera flash, and we keep doing our best to answer them!

You’ll find the answers to the most common questions in the FAQ below. In addition, there’s a bunch of more specific questions in the ever growing comment section.

For your information, this page will continuously be updated. So if you have a question that isn’t answered here, leave a comment or tweet us, and we’ll insert it into the FAQ as soon as we can.

 

1) Which Canon cameras allows me to use the TTL function?

The Air Remote TTL-C supports TTL flash metering with most Canon EOS cameras with the ETTL-II metering system. A complete list of all Canon cameras and Profoto flashes compatible with the Air Remote TT-C is available here. The Air Remote TTL-C  does currently not support TTL with Canon Powershot cameras. But know that the Air Remote TTL-C’s firmware is user upgradable. Needless to say, we’re working on including more compatible camera models and new features in future upgrades. Next upgrade is planned during Q1 2014.

2) Can I use the Air Remote TTL-C with cameras that are not listed above to sync and control the B1 off-camera flash?

No. If you have a Canon EOS camera with ETTL-II metering, choose the Air Remote TTL-C and get full TTL functionality. If you have any other camera (Canon, Nikon, Sony, Phase One, Hasselblad or whatever it may be) choose the standard Air Remote to sync and control the B1 off-camera flash.

3) Can I use the Air Remote TTL-C with older Profoto flashes and thereby access the TTL functionality?

No. To use TTL, you need both the B1 off-camera flash and the Air Remote TTL-C

4) Can I use the standard Air Remote to sync and control the B1 off-camera flash?

Yes, you can use the standard Air Remote to sync and control the B1 . No, TTL functionality, of course. But sync and control, yes.

5) Can I use the Air Remote TTL-C to sync and control other Profoto flashes?

Yes, you can use the Air Remote TTL-C for syncing any Profoto AirS flash, such as AcuteB2 AirS and Pro-B3 AirS, and for syncing and controlling any Profoto Air flash, such as D1 Air and Pro-B4 Air. Just remember that the Air Remote TTL-C only works with the Canon EOS cameras with the ETTL-II metering system – even in manual mode. A complete list of all Profoto flashes and Canon cameras compatible with the Air Remote TT-C is available here.

6) Will there be an Air Remote TTL-N for Nikon cameras?

Yes, there will! Next year. Sign up for our newsletter and you will be the first to know when it’s released. Notice that it’s only the Air Remote TTL-N that is unique for Nikon users. The B1 off-camera flash stays the same..

7) Why did Profoto choose to release the Air Remote TTL-C for Canon cameras before the Air Remote TTL-N for Nikon cameras?

The short answer is: backwards engineering is a tricky business. In other words, it’s not because we like one better than the other. We love Nikon cameras and would’ve preferred to release both at once. But as it turned out, one was finished before the other, and ratherthan waiting several months before releasing the B1 off-camera flash, we did it this way.

8) Will there be any additional Air Remotes for other camera brands?

We’re currently devoting our full attention to making the compatibility with Canon and Nikon as good as it can possibly get. That being said, we’re not closing any doors. Ideally, we’ll have Air Remotes for all camera brands in the future.

9) Can I use the B1 with PocketWizard® units or other radio triggers?

Yes. If you use the Air Remote TTL-C you can slave sync your speedlights either by activating the optical slave on your speedlight or by connecting an Air Sync or an Air Remote unit to the sync jack of your speedlight. The B1 also has an optical slave and a sync jack, so if you are already using speedlights off-camera with PocketWizard® or other radio triggers, you can slave sync B1 as well!

10) What is Quick Burst Mode and how does it work?

Quick Burst Mode is activated as soon as the B1 off-camera flash’s output is set below full power. You can think of the Quick Burst Mode like a tank of energy with an adjustable tap in one end (the output control) and an automatic fill-up in the other (the charger). The charger continuously strives to keep the tank full, while the output control allows to tap as little or as much as you’d like from the tank. As long as there is energy left in the tank, it can be tapped. But if you tap faster that the charger can fill it up, you will eventually empty the tank.

A couple of examples:

  • When the B1 is set to full power, the tank will be completely emptied in a single flash. In other words, Quick Burst Mode is not activated.
  • When the output is set to three stops below full power, you will empty 1/8 of the tank with every flash, which means that you can flash eight consecutive times with almost no delay in between. On the other hand, if there is a short delay in between the flashes, the charger will use this time to once again fill up the tank, adding even more flashes to the burst sequence.

11) Does the B1 off-camera flash support High Speed Sync (HSS)?

Not at the moment. But this is something we are currently looking into. Hardware-wise, it’s totally possible, so we have good hopes of including it in a future firmware upgrade!

12) How fast is the B1 off-camera flash in comparison to the D1 monolight? Can I, for instance, freeze water with the B1?

Yes, you can! At full power, the B1 has a longer flash duration than the D1 500. But contrary to the D1, the B1’s flash duration shortens when you dial down the power. At one f-stop below full power, the B1’s flash duration is equal to D1’s. Turn it further down and the B1 will have a significantly shorter flash duration. At the lowest power setting, you’ll have a flash duration of 1/19,000 of a second! So yes, you can easily freeze water with the B1! If you want to take a closer look at how the flash duration changes depending on the power setting and the Freeze Mode setting, there’s a chart available in the B1 user guide. Click here to download the B1 user guide.

13) Can you connect the B1 off-camera flash to the wall outlet?

No. Including that function would’ve resulted in a much larger unit, and in this case we valued portability and ease-of-use higher than anything. What you can do is to get yourself one or two Spare Batteries and recharge while shooting. The battery recharges in only one hour with the Fast Charger. There is also a Car Charger available, allowing you to recharge the battery in your car cigarette connector.

14) Can I use my D1 accessories, such as grids and glass domes, with the B1?

Yes, you can. That’s partly why we made the B1 so similar in design to the D1, even though they’re quite different on the inside. The B1 can, of course, also be used with the same Light Shaping Tools as all the other Profoto monolights and flash packs.

15) Can I replace the B1’s flash tube myself?

Yes, you can. You just remove the glass plate, remove the metal pin holding the flash tube and pull it out. It’s very easy, but if you feel nervous about it, take it to an authorized service station and see how they do it.

16) How many full power flashes can I get out of a single battery?

220 full power flashes. Up to 50,000 flashes at lowest power!

17) I’m thinking of using the LED modeling light for video. What is the color temperature?

The battery provides 90 minutes of full power modeling light, so that’s totally possible. The LED modeling light has the same color temperature as a tungsten lamp: 3.000K.

18) Will there be any other versions of the B1 released, such as a 250Ws or 1.000Ws version?

Maybe. It’s too early to say at this point. We’re now focusing on the 500Ws version and are curious to see how it’s received by photographers worldwide.

 

Hope that helps! If not, leave a comment or tweet us and we’ll get include your question in this FAQ asap!

 

Profoto B1 off camera flash tech data 600x646 The B1 Off camera Flash FAQ

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Comments (512)

  • Fredrik Karumo

    |

    Will there be any support for any brands other than Canon/Nikon?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Fredrik,

      See reply above.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • David

    |

    I’m glad that you are looking into HSS, in my opinion as a sports shooter it is an absolutely vital inclusion and if you are already at the point of considering it, you are aware of how useful it is and should definitely go all the way and get it implemented in a future firmware update as soon as possible. I for one would be even more interested in the B1 then I am now (which is currently at “very”) when it has HSS.

    Reply

    • Brad

      |

      Completely agree about the HSS, that was the one question I had about them.

      Reply

      • Morten

        |

        Agree about the HSS, that feature would make me pull out the plastic card. The B1 would be a perfect lightweight location flash with HSS. Not powerful enough or fast enough flash duration for outdoor use without it. Couldn’t care less about TTL.

        Reply

        • Brook

          |

          I would order 6 today(or when they have the Nikon adapter when this happens. I have asked for this every year in person at photo expo and they always looked am me like I was crazy.

          Reply

          • Dan

            |

            Another vote for HSS – lack of HSS is the only thing holding me back from switching to B1’s!

            Reply

          • Michael

            |

            Another vote for HSS. A must for me.

            Reply

          • Matthias

            |

            HSS would be great!

            Reply

          • Philip

            |

            Another vote for HSS. Also the option to work with canon 600ex would be cool too.

            Reply

          • Diego Alonso

            |

            Last week I bought this flash. I am very happy with it but HSS is very important for my work. A few days ago I’ve seen a Review in which a photographer says Profoto can add the HSS via a firmware update. Is that correct?

            Reply

          • Diego Rivera

            |

            I too would love Profoto make due in their firmware to allow for HSS, I make use of Canon’s speedlites hss all the time without no hassles and extra triggers would love to see that become available in the b1s… I own one but only use it when i need that extra juice…. I would rather stay a profoto custumer then turn over to priolite.

            Reply

    • Andreas Timm

      |

      I am seriously thinking about the B1s – but yes: HSS should be supported and also it would help if my Canon 1Dx would be supported.

      Please make it happen Profoto! Thanks :-)

      Reply

    • Craig

      |

      HSS essential for me too – I won’t buy until it’s available.

      Reply

      • Max

        |

        Same with me – I’m carefully observing the developments. If Profoto manages to add HSS by mid-year, I’ll immediately buy 3 strobes. Otherwise, I will go with the new Priolites.

        Reply

    • Kazey

      |

      Agreed. No HSS is a deal breaker. I was set to drop cash on two B1s until I realized there was no HSS. “High hopes for a firmware upgrade” to support HSS does not instill enough faith to drop nearly $5k. Disappointing.

      Reply

    • Emmett425

      |

      I own one B1 and would purchase more if I HSS were an available. There are applications where I would love to use the B1 but can not due to 1/250 max sync speed. Love the light – will love it more when HSS is on board. I am guessing getting Nikon to the party is a bigger focus the HSS – But I would love to see the HSS sooner rather than later. :)

      Reply

  • Steve Holmes

    |

    Is the 1DX a supported camera in the initial firmware? If not, will it be in the future?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Steve,

      See question 1. In other words, no EOS 1DX in the initial firmware. But yes, it’s in the plan!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • JMF

    |

    Agree with David above. I’m pulling out the credit card as soon as you announce HSS and Nikon compatibility.

    Reply

    • Travis

      |

      Yep! Credit card on hold for exactly those two things.

      Reply

  • Kasper Lisby

    |

    Will it be possible to use the Air remote TTL-X with the D1s?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Kasper,

      Replied in question 5.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Lucas Wroe

    |

    I too, as a creative sports photographer, would be interested in syncing with 1Dx and 1DIV; as well as HHS or a trigger system similar to the Pockeywizard Hypersync to sync at 1/500 or better and work with the entire AIR remote system. So I might utilize B1, B3 and B4 units on location.

    Also, can the current AIR remote control the power level of the B1?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Lucas,

      Replied in question 3.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Marvin Joseph

    |

    I can’t believe no one has asked the obvious question of them all……when are the B1’s available to purchase??? And how much will they cost? I want them ASAP! Keep up the great engineering profoto!

    Reply

    • dawn

      |

      with in six weeks, 1995US dollars, you can check the price on B&H or Adorama.

      Reply

  • Federico

    |

    Hi, can i use the b1 with my pocket wizard multimax?
    Where is the sync for other radio trigger?
    Thanks.

    Reply

    • Steve

      |

      Yes, you can use the Pocketwizard or any radio trigger. The sync jack is located underneath towards the back, similar to how it is on the D1. It also has an optical slave, similar to the D1 as well.

      You can download the manual from the website and see where all the controls are.

      Reply

      • Fredrik Franzén

        Fredrik Franzén

        |

        Thanks, Steve,

        That’s absolutely correct!

        /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

        Reply

  • dawn

    |

    looking forward high speed sync in the future by updating firmware.

    two question:
    1, is B1 1000w version possible in the future?
    2, Could I say acuteb2 600 is one stop brighter than B1 500?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Dawn,

      Regarding the 1.000Ws version, I included this as question 15 above. In short: possible, yes.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Ken

        |

        There certainly is quite a buzz on the new Profoto B1 500 Air ttl. Outside of seeing Canon 1D series ttl compatibility (not holding my breath for Phase One ttl but would love that too)— I would love to see a B1 1000Ws version….

        ken

        Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Dawn,

      Forgot the second one… The difference is between 0.4 stops to 0.8 stops depending on which light shaper that is used. The reason for this difference is that the AcuteB has a bare bulb head and the B1 has a built-in reflector.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • dawn

        |

        Hi:

        Thank you so much for your reply. So when using the SAME light shaping tool on AcuteB and B1, the difference is in the 0.4-0.8 stops range?

        When nikon version comes out, I will definitely buy at least one.

        Reply

  • Barry

    |

    These lights are game changers. With HSS capability I’d want to use these in my wedding biz asap. The ability to overpower the sun at wide apertures would be invaluable.

    Reply

  • Jair

    |

    Question! There will be any option of B1 kits for purchase in the near future? I want at least two of them. Please tell me so i can wait for them.

    Thanks!

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Jair,

      Yes.! See question 16 above!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Jair

        |

        Yes, i had see that question, but i need very soon a new flash equipment because of that my question. How soon that the kits will be available? Two month? Three month? I really like that piece of art, but i need those now!

        Thank you very much.

        Regards.

        Jair.

        Reply

  • Albert Dandl

    |

    Awesome product the new B1 – I need to have one, but 1Dx support and TTL is essential.
    Do you have a time-line / roadmap for the 1Dx support and can you confirm that this will be available via a firmware-upgrade?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Albert,

      This is in our plan but until we have a working solution we can´t make any promises.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • JayEim

    |

    Hello

    How can I use at the same time my speedlights and the B1.

    Thank you
    JayEim

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi JayEim,

      See Steves reply above.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Robert Martinu

    |

    How about power tracking? The lights keep their output in sync with changes to the aperture – basically the “adjust all groups” of the Air remote, but getting its input directly from the camera. Would be convenient and make the new transmitter an option for users of all the digital flashes.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Robert,

      We know there is an interest to do this and we are looking into the opportunities we might have.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Keegan

    |

    Definitely would LOVE to see the firmware update to allow for High Speed Sync.

    Reply

  • Markus Soerfi Schweingruber

    |

    Thanks Profoto for this amazing device! For years I was looking for a light source like this!!

    – HSS for Nikon would be highly appreciated.

    – Is it possible to sync 1/1600s with the Phase One?

    – Kits would be great thing Maybe 3 or 4 in a kit with a proper bag

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Markus,

      Replied in question 16.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • brook

        |

        Fredrik,
        Thanks for answering our questions but please know when you say you answered in question 16, there is no easy way for us to see that. Thing thats only on the client side of your blog program

        Reply

  • Bayena

    |

    It could be possible to sync a b1 with a canon flash 600ex in the same system?

    Reply

  • Richard

    |

    Can the Air Remote TTL-C allow the D1 to have TTL functionality, or is that specific to B1?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Richard,

      To use TTL, you need both the B1 and the Air Remote TTL-C. Added you question the to the FAQ.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Matej

    |

    i can not find flash duration in other power settings. You just have for 500 ws and 2 ws. Do you have table for other power settings.
    thnx.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      HI Matej,

      No, we don’t. Sorry.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Steve Holmes

    |

    There is a graph of power settings and flash durations on page 10 of the manual.

    Reply

  • Matej

    |

    thnx, few days ago user manual was not avalible…

    Reply

  • Purloiner

    |

    Can the B1 be triggered using the Canon ST-E3-RT Speedlite Transmitter using the radio rather than the optical.
    And can I mix the canon 600ex-rt speed lights with the B1?

    Reply

    • faisal

      |

      i have the exact same question!?

      Reply

      • David

        |

        why would you expect the canon ST-E3-RT to trigger the flash of a competitor?

        my suggestion…
        put the B1 on optical slave, then a 600EX-RT firing will trigger the B1
        use the Profoto B1 TTL-C off-camera to remotely set the power of the B1

        Reply

  • HanziHefti

    |

    How do the batteries preform in heat/cold.
    Will I still be able to get 220 fullpower shots in -10C or for that matter in +40C?
    How does temperature affect recycle time?
    And finally; Humidity and/or rain. Issue?

    Thanks! And cool product, btw!

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      HI HanziHefti,

      The battery is ok to use at 0°C to +45°C / +32°F to +113°F and used at -1?°C to +50°C / +14°F to +122°F

      You will get slightly less charges at lower temperatures. But remember that the temperature applies to unit, not the outdoor temperature. In other words, keep it in your bag, take it out when shooting so that it gets warm, and you will have no problem even at lower temperatures.

      The recycling time is affected at higher temperatures, as the safety protocols kicks in.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Fredrik Franzén

    Fredrik Franzén

    |

    HI Purloiner,

    The answer to your first question is no. The answer to the second question can be found above – question 9) I believe.

    /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

    Reply

  • Tino

    |

    Can you all read the FAQ before asking the questions he’s already answered? Just wondering cuz that’s the whole purpose of the FAQ…

    Reply

  • kai

    |

    Yes please! HSS or Fp sync and I order immediately 2 B1.

    Reply

  • Tom Meyer

    |

    Another vote for High Speed Sync and power sync to selected aperture. Priority on a Nikon compatible unit, as well… t

    Reply

  • René Roslev

    |

    HSS would make it a “must have” for me.

    Reply

  • Julius Kotus

    |

    Great flash, great progress, but I think the High Speed ??Sync is a key element if I want use the flash completely freely and creatively… Only with HSS I am free in using aperture that I want to control DOF in my photography, especially during the day.

    Reply

  • Adam

    |

    I love the new flashes. HSS would have a huge impact for me. Another thing I would like to see is easy to adjust ratios (similar to the Canon 600EX-RT). The great thing about TTL is speed, so anything that would help would make it easier to work with and more appealing to buy. Same with increasing/decreasing power in 1/3 and 1/2 stop increments similar to the camera.

    1. Add HSS
    2. Add flash ratios between groups
    3. 1/3 and1/2 stop adjustments

    Bonus #4. Work with Canon and allow these to work with the current Canon 600EX-RT and ST-E3-RT. Without this, I would be limited in when I could actually use this in case I needed fill flash on camera. Also there are many times at a wedding I have lights setup and get called aside to do another photo and I need an on camera flash of some kind. I don’t often have time to change the whole flash setup just for one quick photo, and carrying around multiple flash setups and systems is not practical.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Adam,

      1) We´re working on it!
      2) Air Remote TTL-C has a ratio functionality! 3 groups can be adjusted independently +-2f-stops when shooting fully automatic in TTL mode.
      3) Noted!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Billy

    |

    Fredrik, do the B1 and D1 units use the same flash tube?

    Also, I wish Profoto would offer alternate helix flash tube
    or at least a flash tube extender allowing for true bare bulb.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      HI Billy,

      No, they are not the same.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • søren

    |

    Regarding no. 6 in the FAQ.
    I use Nikon;
    Can you confirm that if I choose to buy B1 now + use the existing Air Remote (without TTL), then it will be possible later to buy the upcoming Nikon Air Remote TTL and use this for the B1’s I’ve already own?
    One of the distributors in Denmark said to me, that the TTL in the flash I buy now only will work for Canon – not with a Remote TTL for Nikon later. However you’ve written that B1 off-camera flash stays the same…
    Regards, Søren

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Sören,

      The person you’ve been talking to was wrong. It’s always the same B1. It’s only the remote that changes depending on what camera you are using.

      In short, yes, I can confirm what you are asking.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • David

    |

    How about considering an “AC-DC power brick” such that the light maybe used mains powered?

    such an accessory could have a “dummy battery” that is then connected to an AC adapter.

    Reply

    • Darius

      |

      Plus 1 vote for an AC adapter. Only thing keeping me from investing into this line vs. Paul Buff Einstein.

      Reply

  • JMF

    |

    Genius!

    Reply

  • Ken

    |

    Great idea—that would be a nice add-on accessory!

    Reply

  • David

    |

    Would be quite simple to design….

    The “dummy battery” could be the shell from a battery with the internals removed and a connector added. Reduces parts costs by reusing an existing mould.

    The “power block” could be off-the-shelf; would merely require finding a suitable supply factoring in the voltage and peak current demand.

    Then, in the future, if different power flashes are designed they could retain the same dummy battery but swap the power block accordingly.

    Reply

  • David

    |

    just noticed something quite amusing.

    on the profoto home page the air remote is shown mounted to a 1DX.
    shame the air remote won’t (currently) work with a 1DX

    Reply

  • Mike

    |

    The B1 seems like the holy grail of lighting, at least for location work. I think it’s piqued the interest of many photographers, myself included. Given it’s current restrictions, it seems like Profoto should have released in 2014 when it’s really ready. At least half the potential users are using Nikon. I recently switched to Canon, but my 1D X isn’t currently supported. At $2K per head [+ trigger cost], this is a professional strobe, yet Canon’s flagship professional body isn’t supported – strange. Anyway, I know Profoto will straighten this all out, but it seems as though you should have waited until most of the kinks were worked-out. Right now we’re presented with a strobe with severe restrictions/limitations on its use.

    Reply

  • Letty Resillas

    |

    Can the modeling light be used as daylight kelvin? In my case I like to go into the woods and shoot where there is minimal sun entering which is pretty low light, I like to shoot with as much natural light as possible, so in these cases can I mimic the sun with bulbs that are daylight kelvin? Does prophoto even make a bulb that is continuous day light?

    Reply

  • René Roslev

    |

    Don’t know if this has already been suggested:
    How about making an easily fittable CTB-filter cover, than would shift the modelling-light from tungsten to daylight? Think video shooters would appreciate.

    Reply

    • Steve

      |

      You could just use a $5 corrective gel for this as well.

      Reply

  • Kevin

    |

    What is the battery life? In other words, if I charge it on Monday will it still have full battery life (220 flashes at high power) come next Monday?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Kevin,

      The battery stays charged for very long. So yes, if you charge it on Monday, it will most definitely still be charged the Monday after that. And More.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Al0n

    |

    The B1 is a great new light.

    Just add HSS, a model and a photographer ;)

    Reply

  • AM

    |

    Hi, This looks like a wonderful lighting tool and possibly exactly what I am looking for! Light. Portable.

    I have used pro heads before so I am used to the dome atop the bulb. Will this flash be able to produce the same quality of light as the pro heads? Combined with the softboxes and so on, can I create soft, wrap around light?

    Reply

    • Robert Martinu

      |

      I’d say the D1 is a good baseline for predictions – they work fine with softboxes. And for those reflectors where it makes a difference you can get the dome cover.

      Reply

  • Ray Stofberg

    |

    what are the B1’s dimensions? Same as D1 500 or (hopefully somewhat) smaller/shorter. What about weight?

    When considering these instead of a couple of SB900’s this is something I would like to know.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Ray,

      The B1 is 31 cm (12.2″) long, 21 cm (8.3″) high (with stand attachment), and has a diameter of 14 cm (5.5″). It weighs 3 kg (6.6 lb.).

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Francois

    |

    As a optional video light use.
    How close to the subject does it need to be, to be effective as a main light source and a what aperture / ISO?

    Reply

  • Clive Davies

    |

    I am interested in buying a B1 and wondered whether it would work with my Canon 600 EX- RT’s which I trigger using the ST-E3-RT without any loss of functionality. I downloaded the user manual for Air remote TTL-C and it stated it isn’t compatible with Canon EX Speedlites. Could I trigger the B1 with the ST-E3-RT?

    Reply

  • Nevsos

    |

    Hi,
    Is it possible to combine B1 TTL with another of Canons flashes? Or do I need to by two B1 TTL directly…;-)

    Nevall

    Reply

  • David

    |

    expanding on and clarifying question 5 in the FAQ.

    to confirm, I may use the Air Remote TTL-C to control the power of a D1 from the camera?

    I appreciate there won’t be E-TTL with the D1, but that doesn’t interest me

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Yes David, that is correct.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Casper Dawson

    |

    Any way to give us an update on how the High Speed Speed incorporation is coming along?

    Waiting to see that happen before investing in the B1 system.

    Thank you.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Caspar,

      I can say this much, HSS is a high priority in our update plan. But it’s too early to give you an exact release date.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Martin

    |

    Dear Profoto

    Can you give an estimate when ETTL-II mode will be fully supported using a Canon EOS-1D X?

    Kind regards

    Martin

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Martin,

      We´re currently working on an update to get the Air Remote TTL-C compatible with Canon 1D-X, which we expect torelease March/April this year.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Martin

        |

        Thanks Fredrik

        Reply

  • David

    |

    As Casper (above) also wants to know, I’d love to hear an update on if you decided enough people wanted HSS to make it a priority addition for a near-future firmware update.

    Thanks

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi David,

      As I wrote to Caspar, HSS is a very high priority in our update plan. But it’s too early to give you an exact date.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • David

    |

    I made an interesting find whilst researching the B1 system; still wondering whether to go B1 or wait for the next-gen system from Elinchrom. The lack of compatibility for the 1DX (my camera) has me waiting.

    It seems Profoto has certainly allowed for the functionality of high-speed sync.

    Go look at this file:
    http://profoto.com/common/pdf/int/AirTTL-C%20FW%20Release%20notes_LR2.pdf
    There is an image showing all cells illuminated on the LCD panel of the Air Remote.
    Shows “HiS” as a sync mode.

    Perhaps full compatibility with all Canon bodies (i.e. the 1DX) is a current priority, though I, like many, would like to know high-speed sync is coming in the future.

    As an aside, I suppose Nikon users would like any functionality.

    It’s odd that in this time of social media that companies don’t talk to their customers.
    Which is more likely, to gain sales by letting “us”, the customers know when to expect compatibility, or to loose sales to another company through in-action.
    Nikon said the 4Ds is coming, and Canon said well in advance that the 1DX was coming. It’s not even as though the B1 will harm sales of another product, as Profoto has no competing product in its current product range.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi David,

      Your observation is correct. Yes, we’re currently working on including the HSS functionality. Still, it’s just too early to give you an exact date when it will be released.

      The reason why we don’t say an exact date is not that we don’t want to talk to our customers. On the contrary, we’d like nothing better than to deliver the news to you. But reversed engineering is a very tricky business, and we really, really don’t want to commit to a date before we are 100% sure that we can keep that promise. That goes for HSS, and it also goes for the AirTTL-N remote for Nikon cameras.

      But I can promise you this, we’ll let you guys know the second we know ourselves.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • David

        |

        Hi Fredrik,

        Thanks for taking the time to reply here.

        I think we all appreciate that engineering takes time, it is merely good to know what Profoto is working on the project.

        For me, it’s a shame the TTL-C doesn’t display head power, was about to buy two B1’s and controller. Now I have to decide how much I need such a feature.

        Reply

  • David

    |

    Hi Profoto,

    A suggestion

    Here in the UK there are few suppliers for the B1.

    I went to Dale Photographic in Leeds at the weekend to try the B1 with a view to buying two and a controller.

    I have a very specific requirement, the lack of which is a deal breaker.

    As you may appreciate, before spending ~ £3,300 I want to test for this feature.

    Unfortunately the shop couldn’t demo the B1 as the battery is sealed, and to show me the unit working would require opening the battery thereby not permitting selling the unit as new. I wouldn’t buy the unit without checking for the required functionality.

    A catch-22 situation.

    The solution, give the retailers that sell the B1 a battery and charger with which they might demo the B1 to prospective customers like myself.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi David,

      I’ve forwarded your feedback to our Product Managers as well to our guys in the UK. Thanks for taking the time to write to us. Feedback is always much appreciated!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Albert Dandl

    |

    I received my B1 already – currently without full 1Dx support. Manual mode is possible thought.
    Any timeline already for the 1Dx support (TTL?)

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Albert,

      We expect it to be released March/April this year.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • David

    |

    Will it be possible to add the following feature….?

    When in manual mode, to have the TTL-C controller to display the absolute flash power?
    At the moment the TTL-C controller seems to display relative power i.e. the power change, thereby giving no indication of the actual power to which the flash head is set.

    Please let me explain.

    Say the B1 is set to a power of 4.2
    If the flash power is adjusted via the TTL-C controller then the controller will display +0.1, +0.2, etc whereas the flash power will display 4.3, 4.4 etc

    Essentially I want to see the actual set power displayed on the TTL-C controller.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi David,

      Yes, the Air Remote TTL shows the relationship between the lights and how much you’ve increased or decreased the output, but not the actual output in Ws, that is correct.

      The reason for this is that Ws doesn’t really say that much. For instance, you can have the same output and get a totally different light depending on positioning, available light and if a Light Shaping Tool is mounted on the flash.

      Relations and changes, on the other hand, is always useful. Many photographer start by shooting an image, then looking at the display and finally doing the necessary adjustments, and being able to keep track of these adjustments is a great help.

      We could of course have included the output too on the Air Remote TTL. But that would’ve resulted in larger, bulkier and more expensive unit, so in that case we decided to keep things simple. Remove all the bells and whistles,. that has always been our thinking.

      Hope that answers you question!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • David

        |

        the one thing I like about Profoto is the simplicity of operation.

        I suppose it become a question of, how important to my way of shooting is knowing the absolute flash power…?

        thanks again for taking the time to answer our questions
        for me it gives a lot of confidence in Profoto as a company, seeing the importance Profoto places in its customers.

        Reply

  • Hussam

    |

    Can I use the BatPac with the B1 Air?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Hussam,

      You can use it to charge the batteries, but not too power the B1 while shooting.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • David

        |

        Thanks for yours (and Dales photographic in Leeds, UK) for advice. Have now ordered two B1 and a controller.
        i have to wait until Feb for delivery.

        following on from the above comment. Would profoto consider producing an AC-DC adapter such that the B1 might be powered directly from an AC supply?

        not looking for a timeline, just the view of profoto on such an accessory.

        Reply

  • Robert

    |

    When will the Nikon B1’s be available?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Robert,

      Second half of 2014.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Debi

        |

        Any update on the TTL-N release ETA nw that we are at the second half of 2014? Thanks!

        Reply

  • david

    |

    Dear Profoto,

    Rather than an AC adapter for the B1 I appreciate Profoto has other things to concern itself over, such full Canon and Nikon support.

    However, I was wondering, would there be a detrimental affects to the B1’s battery (in terms of life) if the battery were left on charge whilst the B1 was in use?

    So, in essence, the B1 battery charger and battery combo become a mains adapter.

    Thoughts?

    Thoughts?

    Reply

    • David

      |

      David,
      I believe that the battery has one port used for both charger and Flash unit, so that wouldn’t be possible.
      However, from an electrical point of view it would be very easy to make an AC unit by using the connector from a battery attached to a AC-DC voltage transformer.

      Reply

      • Robert Martinu

        |

        There might be an additional hurdle: The flash produces power spikes, 250W average output+ losses isn’t something you’d want to run from a small power supply or matching connectors.
        Some LiFePO4 cells as buffer come to mind

        Reply

        • David

          |

          I would imagine the battery would provide the “current spikes”, and the charger would keep the battery “topped up”

          suppose the battery would act as a giant “capacitor”.

          with my elinchrom quadra ranger (which the B1 will replace) I would often leave the charger plugged into the battery whilst using the light in the studio.
          though with the quadra I was using a lead-acid battery.
          have a lithium ion battery for the quadra, but never tried such a technique

          Reply

  • John

    |

    3 part question. Could I use the TTL air remote to trigger another camera connected to a Profoto air sync + camera release cable? Simultaneously while triggering a B1? And could this be done by hand (as opposed to the air remote in hotshoe)? Thank you

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi John,

      Yes, you can use the Air Remote TTL for triggering another camera connected to a Profoto Air Sync plus a camera release cable. It is also possible to do this while triggering a B1, though it requires an additional remote in the camera hotshoe.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • John

    |

    One last question, I’ve noticed when the TTL Air remote is mounted and locked in to the camera’s (canon 5d m3) hotshoe, there is a little “wiggle” room, in other words, the remote is not locked in rigidly. Is this apart of the design? Thank you!!

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      This is absolutely nothing wrong or anything to worry about. The lock is not meant to tighten the fit. It is only a lock to ensure that the connection to the camera is 100% reliable.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • faisal

    |

    hi!
    does canon transmitter triggers b1 built in slave?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Faisal,

      The Slave sensor is triggered by other flashes or by general purpose IR-transmitters. Canon offers several IR transmitters dedicated for their Speelites. We have not tested them and cannot confirm if they work or not. Maybe Canon can provide an answer if they can be used to trigger other flashes than Canon.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Keith

    |

    So I am looking at this setup fo a couple of Purposes.

    One for a Canon 5DMK3 and one for my Phase One 160. I understand that I would need one controller for the Canon and TTL (AIR REMOTE TTL-C) and another for the Phase (Profoto Air Remote).

    What I am wondering is how these will play with Leaf Shutter Lenses and max shutter speed. What max shutter speed with these work up to?

    Also will it be compatable with the Controller built into the Phase Grip?

    Thanks in advance for your response.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Keith,

      Air Remote TTL-C is only a transmitter and cannot be used as receiver.
      Air Remote can be used as receiver for all Air transmitters including the one built into the Phase grip. Minimum sync speed is difficult to respond to generally as the limitation is usually the cameras x-sync spec. Air Remote can be set to fast sync mode and then supports sync speed down to 1/800s on Phase cameras. In normal sync mode down to 1/500s. The transmitter that is built into the Phase grip supports sync speed down to 1/1,600s.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Hussam

    |

    How does the hyper sync work on the B1?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Hussam,

      It doesn’t at this point. But we’re working on it.

      /Fredrik. Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Hussam

        |

        Thanks Fredrik. I think I am confused. I thought it did have hyper sync but no high speed sync. Could you explain?

        Reply

        • Fredrik Franzén

          Fredrik Franzén

          |

          HI Hassan,

          Sorry, I got confused. It’s of course High Speed Sync we’re working on. Hyper Sync does not work with B1.

          /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

          Reply

          • Hussam

            |

            Thanks. How does it work?

            Reply

          • Robert Martinu

            |

            Guess there is a bit of terminology confusion.
            Profoto works on emulating the behavior of flashguns. We’ll have to wait and see.
            Then you have the “trigger the flash early and hope its slow enough to cover the whole shutter action” – might perhaps work at full power, but cut it a bit and the flash durations shortes.
            And finally you have PWs other flavor, shifting the trigger impulse a bit to make use of the safety margins in the timings. That should work fine. Doesn’t dump a good fraction of the light into the shutter blades, so external metering still works and requires a FlexTT transmitter + any receiver.

            Reply

          • David

            |

            if I may answer….

            please excuse me if I telling you something you already know.

            in a focal plane shutter camera there are two shutter blades.
            at shutter speeds slower than/equal to the x-sync the first blade will open, full expose the sensor /film, then the second blade will follow.

            so there is a moment when the sensor is fully visible; it is at this time that the flash fires.

            for shutter speeds faster than the x-sync the first blade will start moving and shortly after the second blade will follow.
            the two blades form a slit.
            the width of this slit forms the exposure time.

            if the flash were to fire it would only exposure that section of the sensor visible when the flash fired.

            high-speed sync turns the flash on-and-off very quickly in a series of controlled bursts that expose the entire sensor as the slit moves across.

            this is why HSS dramatically reduces the power of the flash.
            instead of “BANG!” the flash is going pop-pop-pop-pop

            make sense?

            a regular has a short pulse duration, typically shorter than the shutter speed.
            to ensure the frame is correctly exposed

            Reply

  • Robert

    |

    At this time, no one in the USA have the B1 in stock, there is no reviews from day to day street photographers anywhere. How many of these were made? Was profoto anticipating low sales?

    Reply

    • Hussam

      |

      I ordered two early this month and have not received them as of yet. They said they are back ordered. They also said I will not receive anything until late February, ouch.

      Reply

      • Craig

        |

        Same boat here. Ordered mine in early December. Still waiting. Has anyone in the US that ordered them received theirs yet?

        Reply

  • Mogens

    |

    Is the B1 compatible with older 1D-series cameraes like the 1DsIII ?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Mogens,

      We´ve only tested the cameras that are listed in the release so we cannot know for sure but any camera with ETTL-II metering system is likely to work. Bring your camera to your dealer and try to get a test shot.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Jon

    |

    No Nikon B1 till “second half of 2014″ is a genuine disappointment because we assume that REALLY means 2015. Sigh.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Jon,

      No, it really means second half of 2014. We do our best to not promise anything we can’t fulfill.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Adde

    |

    Hi i bought 4 B1s and they are great…so now im just waiting for the ttl for Nikon… Hurry hurry ;)

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Adde,

      Doing our best! Thanks for your patience!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • John Flora

    |

    Has anyone tested Hypersync using Pocket Wizards? Curious to hear of your results.

    Reply

    • Steve

      |

      It’s not possible to test that yet, because the B1’s do not have this feature yet. It will be added later.

      Reply

      • John

        |

        It’s not a function of the B1, but of the Pocket Wizards.

        Reply

  • Albert Dandl

    |

    Hypersync with PW was tested from my supplier and he confirmed to me that it works decent to 1/2000 pretty much okay with a decent vignette at 1/4000 and 1/8000. I did not try myself yet, but if you like I can upload a sample (of a grey backdrop) with data that you can judge yourself.

    Reply

  • John

    |

    That would be awesome. What body was used?

    Reply

    • Albert Dandl

      |

      John – I will do the test in the coming days with a 1Dx.
      My e-mail is albert (at) dandl.at – drop me a note and I’ll send you the tests.
      (Just a general statement – I’m not Profoto :))

      Reply

  • Robby Molver

    |

    Im with Robert Martinu and David. I think this B1 is a great flash, but if it could have HSS(that it will come soon) and an AC-DC Adapter it would be The Flash… Imagine, work in the studio and outdoor with only 3 Kg, no Bacpac (11Kg + Flash)…

    Reply

    • Hussam

      |

      I agree

      Reply

  • david

    |

    Hello Mr profoto:

    Thank you so much for introducing such an amazing product.

    Could you tell me the advantages and disadvantages between AcuteB 2 and B1?

    Reply

  • Albert Dandl

    |

    Dear All!

    Hope Profoto would not mind if I share my test results here:

    https://plus.google.com/117199604773989074608/posts/4ZMju59zpc8

    I did some test-shots with PW and B1 using Hypersync. Apparently the combination offers acceptable results up to 1/2000th of a second.

    Test Result / Images are to be seen on the link above

    Hope that helps.

    Albert

    Reply

  • khaled

    |

    hello there i have two questions….

    first how can i firmware the b1 ?

    second how can i use the burst mode to catch action photography my canon 5d mark 3 can`t go above 1/250

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Khaled,

      Currently we have no firmware updates released.

      The B1 has a Freeze mode that will give you a very short flash duration to freeze action. However this is not the same as HSS (also referred to as Hi Speed Sync) which is the feature required to set the shutter below 1/200s (with Canon 5D MkIII). We are looking into HSS and it may be a future firmware upgrade but currently the B1 does not support this feature.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • David

    |

    how is the compatibility of the B1 with the Canon 1D mark 3?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi David,

      We haven´t tested this camera but most likely it is the same as the EOS 1D Mark IV which works in both TTL and Manual mode. Ask your dealer if you are able to test with a demo unit.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Dennis

    |

    Any idea if the B1 will be a rental item?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Dennis,

      We can´t control this but we know it is already out in some rentals. Usually if there is a demand it will be on offer.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Mutlu

    |

    Hello,

    I bought one of these. But I can’t use freeze mode with Air Remote TTL-C on Canon EOS 5D Mark III. I can’t set shutter speed to over 200.

    How can I do with Air Remote TTL-C?

    Thank you.

    Mutlu

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Mutlu,

      Using a shutter speed beyond 1/200s on Canon 5D Mark II requires a flash with HSS and the B1 does currently not support that. We are looking to make it a future firmware update. Freezemode is not at all related to shutter speed. This is a setting on the B1 that gives shorter flash duration to freeze action with the flash.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Henrik

    |

    Hi,

    I’ve tried to quick burst on my 1D mk4 and 1Dx, and both seems to burst only with 5-6 frames/sec.

    The B1 output is set to 2.0 (2ws) and in manual mode.

    I got the same result in Freeze and normal mode.

    What have I overlooked?

    /henrik

    Reply

    • david

      |

      I tested a B1 with a 1DX, using the air TTL-C remote

      had the 1DX set to 10fps.

      I gradually increased the power of the B1 until it could not sustain 10fps for 100 frames.

      max power was 6 with no missed frames

      at powers 7 and 8 I could do s short burst at 10fps before missing frames would occur.

      I used the B1 on a shoot with the air TTL-C, every now and again the flash wouldn’t fire. it became so annoying I swapped to pocket wizard multimax triggers, with absolutely no misfires.

      Henrik, when you say “manual mode”, do you refer to the flash?

      Reply

      • Henrik

        |

        Hi David,

        Yes, it is the B1 I refer to manual mode.

        I use the exact same setup – Air TTL-C, 1Dx set to 12 fps, B1 set to power 2 in manual mode and for some reason the 1Dx slows down to 5 or 6 pfs!!

        Until now, I have’nt had any misfires at all and the TTL seems to work fine with the 1D Mk4.

        I hope Fredrik Franzén have a solution for my problem.

        /henrik

        Reply

        • David

          |

          i had my 1DX sett to 10fps
          AF on the 1DX set to manual
          1/200 sec

          try setting your 1DX to 10fps, similar to my test

          i had the B1 set to “normal” mode

          Reply

          • Henrik

            |

            I tried with manual focus and set to 10 fps as you suggest, but still the same – it slows down the framerate on both 1Dx and 1D Mk4.
            Shutterspeed 1/200, newest camera firmware.

            I’ve just tried with a sync cable, and here we go with both 10 and 12 fps!! No problems what so ever???

            /henrik

            Reply

          • David

            |

            sounds like we’re both having “issues” with out Air TTL-C when used with a 1DX

            Reply

          • David

            |

            * with our

            Reply

          • Fredrik Franzén

            Fredrik Franzén

            |

            Hi Henrik,

            Not sure what you mean. Are you saying your B1 misses flashes or does the camera only fire 5-6 frames per second?

            /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

            Reply

          • henrik

            |

            Hi Fredrik,

            That the camera only fires 5-6 fps.

            The moment I turn the TTL-C off the framerate is 12 pfs.

            The issue is both with 1D Mk4 and 1Ds.

            /henrik

            Reply

          • Albert Dandl

            |

            I second the issue.
            When the remote is attached to my 1Dx and is powered on the frame-rate goes down (even if the remote is set to manual).
            As soon as the remote is powered off normal frame rate is achieved (12fps).
            I assume there will be a fix coming with the next firmware – can you confirm?

            Reply

          • Fredrik Franzén

            Fredrik Franzén

            |

            Hi Henrik, David and Albert,

            First of all, sorry for the late reply. Didn’t see this until just now. Secondly, I’ve forwarded this feedback to our R&D Department and will get back to you with a reply as soon as I can.

            /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

            Reply

          • henrik

            |

            Hi Fredrik,

            Have you heard anything from the R&D Department. It would be great if the issue could be solved in the march/april firmware update.

            /henrik

            Reply

  • david

    |

    sometime ago I asked whether the B1 could be plugged-in to its battery charger when the battery is installed, essentially using the battery charger as a mains adapter.

    well, now I have my B1’s I can answer the question.

    No

    http://www.asposium.com/profoto4.jpg

    Reply

  • david

    |

    How about this for a future airTTL product.

    An airTTL ring light.

    imagine that, the ability to move around, and get a correct consistent exposure.

    Reply

  • Mutlu

    |

    Can we being a part of Profoto software developer team?

    Reply

    • Albert Dandl

      |

      Hi Mutlu!

      The freeze action looks amazing – I like it.
      Do you remember the power-setting on the B1 as well?

      Kind regards

      Albert

      Reply

      • Mutlu

        |

        Hi Albert,

        Yes, I set minimum power because FREEZE mode works very fast at the lowest power!

        Mutlu

        Reply

  • Serhat

    |

    Hello,
    I have ordered 2x B1 heads from a major website and they are back-ordered since mid January. I have checked other websites like Amazon, Adorama, Calumet and etc.. and no one seems to have a date when they will ship the items. please enlighten us..

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Serhat,

      It’s very hard to answer your question, as we sell all of our products through distributors on to dealers. What we can say is that we are producing and delivering as much flashes as we can and we provide updates to our distributors every week. Needless to say, we want nothing more than to get our flashes out there!

      The current challenge is that the demand for the B1 Off-Camera Flash has exceeded our initial production capacity. Due to this, there is still a waiting list that we serve on a first-come first-serve basis.

      Our production is now ramped up to maximum capacity and we expect to catch up fully with demand in the next 2 months if orders keep coming in the same rate as it currently does. Note: This does not mean that you will need to wait 2 months, just that we will not fully remove the waiting list until then.

      Thanks for your patience.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Ruben

    |

    Hello,

    I’ve got 4 B1 heads and the Profoto air-remote. I want to know – when I put my 4 heads, into 4 seperate groups – if I can change all 4 groups through my air-remote. If yes: HOW? Because I can only select three of them as far as I know. (A, B, C)

    Kind regards…

    Reply

    • Robert Martinu

      |

      Which remote? The TTL one mimics the (pre RT) flash control of the camera, that would be 3 groups for both Canon and Nikon. (Power tracking would be a nice new feature for a firmware update!)
      For the manual one its the same as with the D1, just tapping the group button until you get to D,E,F.

      Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      HI Ruben,

      Yes you can. If you deselect all groups (A-C) you will adjust all groups together (also group D-F). How to select and deselect groups is described on page 13 in remote user guide.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Ruben

        |

        Yes, but is is possible to adjust group D from my TTL AIR REMOTE, without adjusting the other groups?

        Regards,

        Reply

  • Victoras

    |

    Hello.

    It is a really fast question. Yes or no. Its possible to control using Air Remote TTL-C divice some Canon Speedlights (as 600ex, for example). Doing that i can use the B1 unit as main light and use the speed lights to fill (of course a possible solution is to configure these as optical slave, but is not the best way. I don’t like to walk :) )

    Thanks in advance

    Reply

    • david

      |

      hi,
      I have both the airTTL-C and canon 600EX-RT

      As far as I can tell, it is not possible to wirelessly control the canon from the airTTL-C

      But then again, I wouldn’t have expected a profoto controller to work with a canon flash.

      Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Vicotorias,

      You cannot control Canon flashes but you can sync them with the Air Remote TTL-C if you attach an Air Sync (set as receiver) to each Canon flash.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • arthur Argote

        |

        Thank you Fredrik,

        If I could make a more economical suggestion to my fellow B1/600ex-rt users; go to flash zebras and look for their optical triggers for canons. they sell it according to generations of flash, i.e. the 600’s share the 580exII compatibility. They also have optical triggers with a cable so that you can mount them outside a light modifier if your 600 is in a soft box. In this scenario, the B1 is the master and the 600’s are the optical slaves. However, I believe they will only work in manual mode. The B1 in TTL, I assume, also does a pre fire flash that would set off the optical triggers. However they are 1/10 the Air Remote’s price so thats is the tradeoff. However in a studio, likely, you aren’t TTL.

        Reply

    • david

      |

      Victoras,

      I also am interested in controlling a B1 and Canon 600EX-RT at the same time ….here are my thoughts on how to achieve this.

      Camera
      On the camera have a pocket wizard controller such as a minTT5 (or similar)
      On top of the PW have the canon ST-E3-RT

      Canon flash
      Nothing required, use the on-camera ST-E3-RT

      B1
      Have a PW receiver plugged into the sync port of the B1 to trigger the B1
      THEN, use the airTTL-C off-camera to control the power, turn on/off the head and/or modelling light etc.

      Best I can think of at the moment.
      I will borrow a flexTT5 from a friend and give it a try.

      Reply

  • Pedro Martín

    |

    Love:
    TTl mode
    Quick burst
    Power and weith

    Bad:
    No Hss
    No work well with Pocketwizard, or Canon Speedlite EX-RT.
    Control in Air Remote is not comfortable.Please see Ac3 Zone of Pockectwizard, work fine.

    Please fix the HSS, I’ll buy a second flash this spring.As I look sideways at Elinchrom

    Please High Speed Sync
    Please High Speed Sync
    Please High Speed Sync

    Thanks

    Reply

  • John

    |

    Hi, I recently starting using a B1. Out of curiousity, I removed the frosted plate to get a better look at the flash tube and modeling light. I noticed the flash tube was not perfectly centered within the unit, but a bit off-centered. Is this normal?

    Thank you

    Reply

    • John

      |

      Disregard previous question. The tube was a bit loose in my B1 (could have came loose in shipping). Once I pressed it into place, centered perfectly.

      Long live the B1…

      Reply

      • Casper

        |

        Hey John, after you pushed the tube into place, did you notice if part of the tube that is kind of raised, is touching the glass cover?

        I feel like mine is, and it’s also a little uneven.

        How strong are the tubes? I don’t want to try and move things around. This is my first light of its kind.

        Thank you.

        Reply

        • John

          |

          I just put on a glove and gently pressed the tube down into place. It evened up right away. I pressed gently, but definitely with some pressure. The tubes are supposed to be user replaceable so I figure they are not extremely fragile.

          Reply

  • Ryan

    |

    I got the B1 recently and today received a glass dome which I understand is better for use with the profoto soft light beauty dish. My question is – now that I have the glass dome is best to use it for all modifiers or are there times when I should switch back to the flat fronted glass element? I wonder if a list could be produced which would suggest which works best with each modifier……?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Ryan,

      We´ve designed the flat front with our light shaping tools in mind so with most Light shaping tools it makes very little difference if the dome or the flat glass plate is used. In theory the dome provides a slight edge in light control with the hard reflectors but the practical difference is slight and it is more of a personal preference.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Ryan

        |

        Many thanks Fredrrik.

        Reply

  • Casper

    |

    I JUST got my B1! :) Bought it from B&H.

    After reading John’s comment, I decided to take a look at my B1’s flash tube. It looks uneven, and the flash tube might also be touching the glass cover.

    Is this normal?

    Thank you for any help in this regard.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Casper,

      Here is the reply from our Product Manager:

      “We´ve had reports of this but they are only a few. It seems like the flashtube in some cases has loosened from its sockets during transport. We are now looking into the underlying reason for this happening.

      If your flashtube has loosened the worst thing that can happen is that it orients to close to the metal reflector resulting in missed flashes. There is no risk of damaging your B1.

      You can reposition the flashtube by gently pressing down the tube into the two sockets oriented to the bottom end of the image below picture. You should press until you feel there is a firm stop. It should do the trick. Let us know if it doesn´t.”

      Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Glynn

    |

    Will HSS be able to sync up to 1/8000 sec? I contacted Priolite re their new battery head and they informed me their light will sync up to 1/8000 sec with no light fall off. Hoping that Profoto can match this as I am interested in purchasing B1 Air light units when HSS materialises.

    Will Profoto be introducing a three light B1 Air Kit with dedicated case?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Glynn,

      We aim to provide full HSS, supporting Sync speed down to 1/8000s. Once we release it we will also release the full specs. We expect this upgrade to be available during 2014.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Marius

        |

        During 2014 is a long time to wait, especially since others already have come out with this feature. Ex. the Priolite MBX500 Hot Sync.

        I really want to buy a Profoto B1 head, so hurry up with this upgrade ;)

        Reply

      • david

        |

        will 1DX TTL support be released first?

        Reply

      • Glynn

        |

        Fredrik,

        Thanks for your reply regarding HSS.

        1. Is there any reason why Profoto could not offer a daylight balanced LED modelling lamp (in addition to or instead of the present Tungsten LED) for use with the current heads?

        2. Are Profoto considering offering a B1 Air (x3 heads) kit with purpose made case to take all three lights?

        Reply

        • arthur argote

          |

          Hello Glynn,

          Fellow user here just guessing an answer to your first questions. I thought as to why as well they were set to 3200K and not 5600K. I prefer them to be 3200K because begin that they are only 70 watts, they could only be useful to me as an indoor movie light or indoor constant light for still. That could be the reason why: the fact that they are only 70 watts that the more likely use would be in and indoor tungsten environment vs, say, to balance sunlight from a window ( of course as a constant light source, not a modeling light). That way you don’t need to Gel them to tungsten and loose another stop of light.

          Moe likely the answer is that all modeling lights are tungsten or like based so they are also at 3200K. Likey it was to match the modeling lights of other studio strobed.

          By contrast, the westcott skylux, set to 1000W equiv constant light LED, has enough juice to be used as constant studio light, (albeit with a slower shutter or higher ISO) hence the 5600K, which is the temp of studio strobes. Hence also not a need to gel and lose a stop of light.

          Again, all guesses on my part.

          Reply

    • Marius

      |

      Why not just buy the Priolite then? They are already available for shipping :)

      I think we have to wait along time for B1 to come with HSS :(

      Reply

      • Glynn

        |

        HSS at 1/8000 sec is extremely useful but the rest of the specs don’t match the B1 Air for my sports action requirements.

        Reply

        • Marius

          |

          Such as?

          Reply

          • Glynn

            |

            But the lights do not recycle so fast. The fasted recycle time at lowest power will be 2 frames a second

            Above quote is from Priolite

            Enough said.

            Reply

          • Marius

            |

            Lowest power would be 5fps not 2fps, how much is the B1?

            From Priolite

            “Less than 2.5 seconds recharging to full power, 5 flashes per second at minimum power. Very short flash duration of 1/2500 sec. (t05)”

            Reply

          • Glynn

            |

            1/2500 sec at t0.5 – this equates approx to 1/830 sec for t0.1

            The 2 FPS spec I gave you was from Priolite directly to me by email about their MB500X.

            Reply

          • Marius

            |

            Why do they write 5fps at lowest power then? This is very misleading to me at least. What does 1/2500 sec at t0.5 actually mean?

            Reply

          • Glynn

            |

            I suspect from your question you know perfectly well what t0.5 vs t0.1 means.

            Hensel use t0.5 in marketing purely because other manufacturers do and yet admit t0.1 is a better measurement for high speed photography – see following:

            http://www.hensel.eu/fileadmin/Dokumente/Produkte/Kompaktblitzgeraete/SPEED_MAX/HENSEL_LIGHT_STORY_2012_E.pdf

            It is refreshing that Paul C Buff (Einsteins) and Broncolor quote t0.1 in their main specs and not t0.5

            It’s about time all manufacturers quoted t0.1!

            Reply

          • Marius

            |

            Thanks very much for that document, cleared up a few things for me ;)

            Reply

  • top vet tech schools

    |

    When I initially left a comment I appear to have clicked the
    -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now every time a
    comment is added I receive 4 emails with the same
    comment. Perhaps there is an easy method you are able to remove me from that service?
    Thanks a lot!

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi there,

      I’ve asked our Web Editor to look into this. Has anyone else encountered this problem?

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Albert Dandl

        |

        Hi All!

        I only receive one e-mail per commend – which is what I wanted.
        Every e-mail has a link to “unsubscribe” eventually the person has subscribed with 4 different e-mail addresses.

        Kind regards

        Albert

        Reply

        • Fredrik Franzén

          Fredrik Franzén

          |

          Hi Albert,

          Thanks. I suspected the above message was just spam, but didn’t want to delete it, just in case.

          /Fredrik

          Reply

  • Glynn

    |

    Frederik,

    Thanks for your reply regarding HSS – great news!

    1. Is there any reason why Profoto could not offer a daylight balanced LED modelling lamp (in addition to or instead of the present Tungsten LED) for use with the current heads?

    2. Are Profoto considering offering a B1 Air (x3 heads) kit with purpose made case to take all three lights?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Glynn,

      1.) The LED is not user replaceable. We may eventually offer this in an optional version and/or as a service upgrade but there is no specific plan to do so right now.
      2) Currently no.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Mike

    |

    New tilt lock lever
    When releasing the tilt lock lever of the head it sticks a littel bit and resolved only with a slight jerk. At my dealer I could notice the same on another device of a brand new D1 with the new tilt lock lever – my old D1 have the old tilt lock lever without this effect. Why is this so? And it feels bad and not acc. the other build quality of your equipment!

    Reply

  • Mike

    |

    addendum
    … and with a slight loosening of the tilt lock lever you can feel some tolerance … same too of a brand new device in my store.

    Reply

  • Argyle

    |

    1) Is this weather sealed or weather resistant? Can I use it in the rain?
    2) Does the remote work in the rain?
    3) Will there be generator packs and heads in the coming future that use similar technology such as ETTL and the ability to see the flashes power from the remote?
    thanks!

    Reply

    • david

      |

      have a B1 and a remote, I may answer 1) and 2) for you

      1) Is this weather sealed or weather resistant?
      >> No

      Can I use it (the B1) in the rain?
      >> Technically no, but I will wrap my in a rain shield when outdoors in the rain

      2) 2) Does the remote work in the rain?
      >> Temporally :)
      The remote is not weather sealed

      Reply

      • Fredrik Franzén

        Fredrik Franzén

        |

        Hi Argyle,

        David is correct in both cases. The answer your thirds question, no. We will build new features into the system but the basics will stay as they are to keep system compatibility for our range of Profoto Air products.

        /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

        Reply

        • david

          |

          If it were possible, a ringflash with TTL functionality would be of interest

          Reply

        • Argyle

          |

          Thanks for the information. That’s a shame, I’d really like a power pack like the broncolor move or pro b4 with the features (ettl, better remote etc) the b1 has and weather sealing.

          Reply

  • Zoltan Mucsanyi

    |

    I think your answer given to the above question #9 is not really an answer to the question.

    I have just purchased two B1s and I am experimenting, also with the PocketWizard Mini TT1 and TT5 sets (Canon Speedlites). I found the following blog. Unfortunately it does not work. It would be a valuable combo for me to supplement the B1s with PW controlled Speedlites.

    http://plbphoto.wordpress.com/2012/02/21/mixing-pocket-wizard-and-profoto-air-sync/

    Any comments, please?

    Reply

  • Todd Thiele

    |

    I can’t sync my Sekonic L-478dr with my B1’s. I know the head needs to be on sync and not air but how do I get to the channels menu? I can only get there from the air mode it seems. And I’m assuming the Sekonic can fire the strobes, correct?

    Reply

    • david

      |

      the B1 does not have a built-in pocket wizard compatible receiver.

      you will need to plug a suitable pocket wizard receiver into the 3.5mm sync port of the B1 in order to trigger the B1 with your 478

      Reply

  • PonyMa

    |

    Hi, Fredrik Franzén,
    Will, B1 can be upgraded to support follow-HSS function is truly operational strobe flash mode or stretched pseudo-high-speed t0.5 time it?

    If it is true strobe flash mode,

    1 can reveal whether the trigger strobe frequency?
    2. Continuous use will not prone to overheating of the lamp body condition? How much lower power state, the number of continuous use overheating will occur? Use happens after overheating how? (Lamp body direct shutdown? Extension may be cited or flash drive?)

    Because as far as I know, the Chinese mainland manufacturers have developed a true strobe flash mode PORTABLE BATTERY-OPERATED 400W STUDIO LIGHT. Each strobe trigger 200 times. But the biggest problem encountered FP mode under light body overheating problem, FP +0 (200W) occurs approximately 50 to trigger the lamp body overheating closed. This part of the expected performance of B1 do?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi PonyMa,

      We make no secret of our expectation to launch a true HSS upgrade before the end of this year but we will not publish or comment any detailed specs until we are ready to launch.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Hussain

    |

    It was mentioned earlier that the TTL-N will be available early 2014. Now it just seems vague. I appreciate that you’re doing your best to accomplish this but maybe more info and updates on this would help us plan accordingly. For example, if it will take more than 6 months then I can hang onto my D1s, if it’s sooner then I can go ahead and replace them. Leaving us hanging like that is a bit cruel :)

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Hussain,

      I hear what you’re saying, but it’s just too early to say. For the record, though, I don’t believe we’ve ever said early 2014. It’s 2014 we’ve stuck to and that still applies. LIke you say, we’re as eager as the next one to get the Air Remote TTL-N out there, and it’s coming!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Hussain

        |

        Thanks Fredrik! I was citing Profoto webinars (and other sources) regarding the release date but maybe it was too early to judge back then…

        Reply

    • Steve

      |

      If you’re just replacing your D1’s, you can just do it now. You can use the B1’s in manual mode just like you’ve been doing all this time with the D1’s. It’s only the Nikon AIR remote that needs to be available. The actual B1 lights are the same. So you cam use them now just like your D1’s, either with your existing AIR remote, or with another transmitter and receiver like Pocketwizard. When the Nikon remote comes out, you just buy it and start using it.

      Also, the B1 brochure already lists a product number for the Nikon, so I don’t think it will be too long now.

      Reply

  • Ryo

    |

    Hi,

    Could we have a date for the upgrading firmware for the Canon 1dx TTL mode / air remote ?

    Thx ;

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Ryo,

      No, not yet. But it’s not too far now.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • david

    |

    I recently purchased a spare battery for my B1’s, and now have a product suggestion.

    the spare battery is kept in my lighting gear box with other stuff
    made me realise that there is nothing protecting against an accidental short circuit of the battery
    so, how about a clip on plastic part to cover the battery terminals when the battery is not installed onto a B1?
    such a cover could have a slot such that the battery test button could be depressed with the battery cover in place.
    there would be little need to supply such a battery cover with the B1, but such a cover should be supplied with spare batteries.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      HI David,

      Thanks for the feedback! We appreciate all good ideas for improvements.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Mike

    |

    Sorry for repeating – I don´t get any answer !

    Tuesday, March 11th, 2014 at 10:58 am | #

    New tilt lock lever
    When releasing the tilt lock lever of the head it sticks a littel bit and resolved only with a slight jerk. At my dealer I could notice the same on another device of a brand new D1 with the new tilt lock lever – my old D1 have the old tilt lock lever without this effect. Why is this so? And it feels bad and not acc. the other build quality of your equipment!

    Friday, March 14th, 2014 at 11:34 am | #

    … and with a slight loosening of the tilt lock lever you can feel some tolerance … same too of a brand new device in my store.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Mike,

      The tilt lock lever has the same design as late D1´s. The surface fining of some parts have been slightly changed to improve the locking function why it may differ slightly from older D1´s. A slight tolerance is normal and it may differ slightly between units. If you experience any of this as being beyond normal please contact your closest Profoto dealer for personal support.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Mike

        |

        Hi back,
        I saw the same effect yesterday at an internal fair with representatives of your company. I don´t want to discuss what´s “normal” or beyond – however future will bring the result and if changes on the tilt lock lever will function.
        Thanks for your engagement

        Reply

  • Mark

    |

    I received my B1 Air from B&H about 2 weeks ago. It’s my first Profoto light. To say it’s well made is an understatement. I owned Hensel and Elinchrom previously and they are no slouches, but this thing is great. I have the Air Remote also and have been using it on my 5D3, although I did play with it on my 1Dx, and as stated, it overexposes. I await that firmware upgrade with what will be delight.

    On another, but very important note, I’ve been experiencing many, many misfires, meaning the flash just does not fire. Battery is charged, batteries in remote are freshly charged Eneloops, and sometimes it just doesn’t seem to communicate. On the other hand, the remote will at all times be able to turn on and off the modeling light, so I know there’s radio communication.
    Yesterday, after shooting a few family group shots, it just stopped flashing. Then it started working again. I can’t not figure out what is causing it.

    Any help?

    Reply

    • Casper K Dawson

      |

      I was just about to post on the miss-fires. I shot 2 weddings this weekend. Did not have too many issues on the first one, but on the second wedding, there were way too many missed flashes. I have 3 batteries in total, and all of them were fully charged. There were missed flashes and inconsistently powered flashes as well. I was on manual mode. Couple that with a wedding party in a hurry and life can become very hectic very quickly.

      Any help in this regard will be greatly appreciated. The gear is still within the return period.

      Thank you.

      Reply

      • Fredrik Franzén

        Fredrik Franzén

        |

        Hi Mark and Casper,

        We have a few ideas what might be causing this, most likely that the flashtube has loosened during transport. But to know this for sure, you should bring the unit to a local dealer or distributor who can actually look at the unit and identify the problem with 100% certainty. Let me know if you need help finding the one closest to you, or if there is anything else we can help you with in this matter.

        /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

        Reply

        • Mark

          |

          Frederick, thank you for replying. I too suspected a loose flash tube. I live not far from B&H. Please tell me where to bring it to have it checked out.
          Mark

          Reply

  • david

    |

    Hi,

    I have two B1’s, and two TTL-C remotes.

    My experience…
    When I first started using the TTL-C with my B1’s I would get numerous misfires, so many that I started using pocket wizard multimax again.

    I was using rechargeable batteries in the controller
    I replaced those rechargeable batteries with QUALITY non-rechargeable batteries (energizer)

    Then, I was on a recent shoot with another, we both had a TTL-C on camera (me on the 1DX, the other on a canon 600D)
    No misfires.

    My advice, try quality batteries.

    Reply

  • Mark

    |

    Frederik, still waiting for that information.

    Also, maybe it’s just me, but wouldn’t it be a lot easier for readers of this FAQ if the latest/newest comments were at the top so we didn’t have to scroll al the way down to the bottom to read/make comment?

    Thank you.
    Mark

    Reply

    • Henrik

      |

      Agree – this thread have become a mess.

      /henrik

      Reply

      • Fredrik Franzén

        Fredrik Franzén

        |

        Henrik,

        We had no idea when we started this post that we would get this many questions. Doing my best to keep up here!

        /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

        Reply

        • henrik

          |

          Hi Fredrik,

          That’s great – I feel sorry for you :-)))

          Have you hard from the R&D department about the framerate issue when bursting?

          /henrik

          Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Mark,

      I’ve sent an email to my colleagues in the US, asking where you should go. Awaiting their response!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Mark

        |

        Thank you, sir.

        Reply

  • Darren

    |

    Not that you haven’t heard this before, but the *ONLY* thing between me and at least two of these things (possibly 3) is HSS… Please :-)

    Reply

  • Rodolfo

    |

    Hi,

    Just a question about the AirTTL-C’s remotes. Whenever they are attached to my cameras (5DM3 and 1DX), the maximum shutter speed I can use is my sync speed (1/200 and 1/250 respectively) even if they are switched off.

    There are times that I don’t want to use the B1 Flash. So only way I can get a higher shutter speed is to physically remove the remotes. This is inconvenient and a time-waster specially during the fast pace of a wedding. All my other brand remotes (Quantum, Pocket Wizard, Canon) do no have this issue. Can you please advise.

    Thanks,

    Reply

    • Mark

      |

      The remote is doing nothing to the camera when it is off. I just tried exactly what you stated on my 1Dx. While remote was on, and in M mode, top shutter speed I could select was 250. The moment I turned the remote off, I could set my shutter speed at any speed, up to and including 1/8000th

      Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Rodolfo,

      This is the way it is in the current Air Remote TTL-C. Unfortunatly it is related to hardware and can´t be changed in a firmware update.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • mark

        |

        Frederic, one of us is misunderstanding Rodolfo. Very possibly me. Is he saying when he turns the remote off, but still attached, it’s stopping his camera from going above sync speed? That is not the case. I’ve tried it and the camera will immediately revert back as if the remote is not attached. Perhaps he’s saying he is just turning the light off with the remote still on. That’s a different scenario.
        Mark

        Reply

        • Albert Dandl

          |

          I saw both – when I turn the remote off I can dial in (sometimes) a speed higher than 1/250, but it would immediately revert back when I press the shutter.

          Can you (Mark) try this?

          Are there eventually two different versions of the hardware?
          One which allows going over sync when turned off and one which does not?

          Reply

          • mark

            |

            Albert, my apology. You are correct. You can change mode to TV or M, increase the shutter speed to 1/8000, but the moment you touch the shutter it reverts back to 1/200 on the 5D3. On my 1Dx it will only go to the sync speed, even when the remote is off.

            That is indeed very strange behavior when the remote is off. Especially considering the fact, and it may be only mine, that it’s an extremely tight fit and very difficult to slide into the hotshoe.

            Reply

          • Paul Cincotta

            |

            I have the same behaviour on my 1Dx, the cameras shutter speed is fixed at sync speed when the TTL remote C is located on the hot shoe even when switched off.

            I also believe I experienced some strange behaviour with white balance being changed by the remote as well? Ended up ditching the the Air TTL remote and went back to the Air remote. No Issues with this remote.

            Reply

  • likwidplastik

    |

    Add me to the list of people that received a B1 with a loose flashtube. What worries me is, it seems like it would require quite a blow for a flashtube to come loose during shipment. Even worse, what if it wasn’t shipped like that, and somehow just came loose for normal use.

    Should I consider exchanging this one?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi,

      If it works after repositioning the tube there should be no need to worry.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • mark

    |

    I finally dared to use a small screwdriver and was able to remove the glass easily. My flashtube was indeed not completely seated. That hopefully was the cause of many misfires. I pressed it in with the use of a small cloth so as not to touch it, and then had a slightly harder time replacing the glass but accomplished that too.

    (tapping fingers) waiting for the firmware for the 1Dx to be fixed and reposted.

    Reply

  • Dino Airosa

    |

    Hi
    Im a Sony user (A99. & A900)
    Understand the B1 don’t support TTL now with my camera, wonder if I buy it now can I use it in Manuel Mode and get the High Speed , and in future if the is Sony version, can the remote adept the B1 I buy now, do I need any upgrade in firmware ?
    Thank you very much
    Dino

    Reply

  • Ivo Chupetlovski

    |

    How much light can you get when you using Freeze mode (1/19,000 s (2Ws)) Is 2Ws enough light to for a standing person?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Ivo,

      In a controlled studio setup 2Ws can be enough for a standing person but the question is to general to answer yes or no. The number of Ws that is required in a specific setup depend on many things, such as Camera ISO and aperture settings, distance between light and subject, ambient light, and which light shaping tool you are using.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Juha

    |

    Can I use Canon ST-E3-RT Speedlite Transmitter to control the B1?

    Reply

    • David

      |

      The ST-E3-RT cannot trigger the B1, or the airTTL trigger a 600EX-RT

      either use the ST-E3-RT to trigger a 600EX-RT and have the B1 set to optical slave.

      or, use generic radio triggers (such as pocket wizard) to trigger a mixed set.

      another option, use the ST-E3-RT on-camera the an airTTL connected to the camera’s PC socket

      Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      HI Juha,

      No the Canon ST-E3-RT Speedlite transmitter is specific for Canon speedlites only and cannot be used to control the B1. To control the B1 you need any of the optional Air Remotes that we offer.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Albert Dandl

    |

    Hi Fredrik!

    Do you already have an indication for a release date for the new firmware which fully supports the EOS 1Dx?

    Thanks

    Albert

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Albert,

      Yes, I do. It will be released within a few days.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Henrik

    |

    Hi Fredrik,

    Have you heard from the R&D department about the framerate issue when bursting?

    Quote:

    Hi Henrik, David and Albert,

    First of all, sorry for the late reply. Didn’t see this until just now. Secondly, I’ve forwarded this feedback to our R&D Department and will get back to you with a reply as soon as I can.

    /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

    /henrik

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Henrik,

      We know about it and we think we know why but until now we have no obvious solution. What we can almost definitively say is that when shooting in TTL mode this is the limit of the camera and there is nothing we can do about it. Our next step is to investigate different options to work around this in manual mode. Until we figure out a fix for this the best solution we can offer is to use the Air Remote (the non TTL remote). The Air Remote offers the same functionality as the Air Remote TTL in Manual mode and does not limit the cameras bursting capability.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Henrik

        |

        Hi Fredrik,

        Thanks for quick reply.
        I’ve just tried the Air Remote (non TTL) and you are right – my 1Dx shooting with 12 fps.
        Great to hear that you are aware of the problem and hopefully will fix the issue in a future firmware update.

        Looking forward to monday and the update for Air TTL :-)))))

        Have a nice day,

        /henrik

        Reply

  • Jack

    |

    Anxiously awaited for the EOS-1D X. Entered the serial number for the Air Remote TTL-C. Sadly I received the message: Unfortunately the serial number you provided indicates that your product must be upgraded by a Profoto service station. Please contact your closest Profoto dealer and they will help you. Couldn’t be more disappointed. Called the local Support Center and was directed to send the TTL-C for the firmware upgrade. I purchased the B1 and TTL-C in anticipation of user upgradable firmware that would allow 1D X TTL operability. I don’t recall reading any Profoto documentation or correspondence suggesting that the TTL-C was NOT user upgradable. I guess I must have missed something???

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Jack,

      There are a few Air Remote TT-C out there that cannot be upgraded without contacting a Profoto Service Station. (The very, very first batch that went out.) You have one of them.

      So, you need to contact an authorized Profoto Service Station and have them do the upgrade. This will be free of charge and you’ll only have to do it this first time. Future upgrades you will be able to do yourself.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Wolfram

    |

    What I do not fully understand up to now:
    Using two b1 in ttl mode (lets say A and B) and I want to have them to work with different power (lets say A shout light 2 stops brighter than B) I have two possibilities:
    1.) put A on +2.0
    2.) put B on – 2.0
    whats the difference?

    Reply

    • david

      |

      sorry if some of this is stating the obvious

      first, understand how TTL works, the camera will control the flash to give correct perceived exposure

      take situation (1)
      the output of flash B will be controlled to give the correct exposure
      whereas the output of flash A will be controlled to be 2 stops over the correct perceived exposure.

      situation (2).
      flash A output correct
      flash B output 2 stops less

      so, whilst the interplay between the two lights is the same, the interplay of the lights with the ambient may be different.
      for example…
      a backlit subject might require positive exposure compensation
      or use as a rim light might require negative exposure compensation

      make sense?

      Reply

      • Wolfram

        |

        I always thaught that in ttl mode the camera only calculates the correct exposure and on the air remote ttl i only change the light ratio between the two flashes. Thats why I thaught there is no difference between option 1 and 2

        Reply

        • david

          |

          Hi, if Fredrik doesn’t comment to confirm i will check later/tomorrow with my two B1 and report back.

          from my experience, the controller sets the balance of flashes to each other and ambient, but I’m always willing to experiment

          Reply

          • Wolfram

            |

            Just did a few test shots and it looks to me, that when shooting in ttl mode there is no difference between version 1 or version 2.
            When doing a new version (A:+2, B:-1) I get a difference of three stops.
            I would like to ask Frederik to comment this and give us a bit more background infos or where I can find more informations.
            Thanks

            Reply

          • Henrik

            |

            No matter how the ratio system is put togehter, it’s worth nothing – in my opinion. What if we add group C in your test? You can only guess for the result – it make no sense!

            My greatest wish is that you guys (Profoto) change the useability so that we can change the mode TTL/Manule for each group. That would make sense and then we could use the B1’s in a more than one light setup.

            /henrik

            Reply

  • Albert Dandl

    |

    Hello Fredrik and Community!

    Unfortunately I found another issue on my 1Dx.
    I’m using the 1Dx with EOS Utility (Life View).
    When I try to focus (via clicking in EOS-Utility on the Screen) the EOS Utility crashes.
    This also happens with the Camranger – when you focus it crashes :( – only when the Air Remote TTL-C is mounted on the Camera.
    (I just tried when the 1Dx is connected via USB Cable everything works fine, however if the Cam is connected via the WFT-E6B the App crashes).

    Not even sure where to raise this issue – Canon will probably not work on this issue.

    I have tried with the Canon ST-E3-RT mounted and it focuses okay.

    Can anyone else try this and confirm if this is only on my equipment of if it is general.

    Thanks a lot

    Albert

    Reply

    • Mark

      |

      I own the Camranger and will try it when I get home.

      Reply

  • mark

    |

    Albert, can you tell me, is stye WFT-E6B the Canon wireless adapter? i don’t have that if that’s what it is. Or are you speaking of connecting the camera to the Camranger via etherlink cable?

    Reply

  • Albert Dandl

    |

    Hi Mark!

    I tried with both – the Canon Wireless Adapter (WFT-E6B) *and* the Camranger. Both did not work.
    For the Camranger setup:
    – CamRanger was connected to the Camera via USB
    – I connected my iPad to CR via Wireless
    – I used the Software vom CR on the iPad
    – I switched on Live View and tried to focus by double tapping.

    => I pad SW crashed (and lost Wireless Connection to CR)

    If you like you could also send an e-mail to me directly (albert (at) dandl.at)

    Reply

  • Mark

    |

    Albert, I’d be happy to email but this should remain here IMO so profoto is aware of it and others see it. I hooked up my camranger via USB with no crashes at all. I did have trouble focusing but I was in a dim room using my 100 macro which does hunt a lot. I also took the air ttl remote off and it was the same. No crashes at all either way. Have you tried closing all open apps on iPad and then turning iPad off and back on? Sometimes it’s memory issues on the iPad itself that causes the app to crash.

    Reply

    • Albert Dandl

      |

      Hi Mark, All!

      Not sure what happened, I removed batteries and rebooted everything.
      Now things are working okay.
      I have to admit, that I wrote my report too early.

      My apologies !

      Albert

      Reply

  • Mark

    |

    No apology necessary. I’m sure Frederic and everyone else is glad it’s now working for you.

    Reply

  • Wolfram

    |

    Hi, Fredrik, I am still waiting for an answer to this question, thanks

    What I do not fully understand up to now:
    Using two b1 in ttl mode (lets say A and B) and I want to have them to work with different power (lets say A shout light 2 stops brighter than B) I have two possibilities:
    1.) put A on +2.0
    2.) put B on – 2.0
    whats the difference?

    Reply

  • Jasper

    |

    I’d love to by the Profoto B1’s! (after I’ve sold my elinchrom ranger-set)
    BUT what makes the B1’s better than the Priolite MBX500?

    Reply

  • Marc T.

    |

    Hi,
    i have a small studio at home with elinchrom lights en different light shaper.
    Is there a possibility to attach my softboxes or other diffuser to a profoto B1 head (adapter?) or did i have to buy softboxes from profoto?
    It could reduce my investment on light shaper so i can get 2 heads of profoto B1 to shoot outdoor when i need it.
    Thanks for help.

    Marc T. (Belgium)

    Reply

  • mark

    |

    if your light shapers are softboxes or beauty dishes, all you need is a Profoto speedring, as you would with any lightshaper and specific brand of light. I have a Mola Setti that had Elinchrom speedring. I bought Profoto speedring and my B1 fit fine. I also bought Profoto speedring for my Chimera softbox and Profoto box because they don’t come with the rings which are very expensive.

    Reply

  • Stephen

    |

    Happy with the first B1 I bought, and got a second one. I did have some issues with the first light initially. Modelling light would not power off (from the remote and flash), and TTL was overexposing. Could not change the power of the light. Tried to power off and on and only after quite a few times did the light work as it should. Thus the question of whether there are videos on checking whether the bulb is loose

    Reply

  • Mark

    |

    No real need for video. Carefully remove glass. Use gloves or soft towel. Don’t touch bulb with fingers/skin. If it’s loose, as mine was (and I view that as very poor QC and don’t buy into it came loose during transport), then just gently press it on side that it goes in “socket” and it will slide in place.

    Reply

  • Ken

    |

    RE: Priolite MBX500 versus the B1 5 things come to mind in favor of the B1, 3 in favor of the Priolite. I’m sure there are more differences but for my work, these were enough to make a decision.

    Benefits of the B1:
    1) B1 has 9 stops of power range Priolite only 5 (Note: 9 stops of control let’s me completely forsake using speed lights if needed)
    2) Flash duration on B1 can go down to 1/19,000 of second freeze mode or 1/11,000 of second normal mode Prioloite 1/4500 of second
    3) recharge time and burst mode B1 as fast as 20 flashes /second (keeps up with my D3s at 9 FPS and 5D Mark III in burst mode) with slow charge on the 2 second range for full power.. Priolite 5 flashes per second burst mode as slow as 2.5 seconds per shot full power.
    4) Battery charging B1: basically an hr to full charge fast charger or 2 hrs regular charger Priolite 2hrs 80% 3 hrs full power.
    5) B1: 6.6 lbs with battery Priolite: 7 lbs

    Benefits of the Priolite:

    1) 400 flashes at full power. B1: only 225
    2) Cost: Priolite Approx. $1,500(US) B1: $,2,000
    3) 1,000 watt/s model offered by Priolite only 1 500 w/s model offered by Profoto

    For my style of shooting the burst mode and power range advantage of the B1 makes the choice easy in favor of the B1for the $500 premium.

    I hope this helps.

    Reply

    • Jasper

      |

      Thanks for you comment! Interesting! Think I’ll go for the B1’s, because of those advantages (the 9 stops is a big plus!! Didn’t think of that before)

      Reply

  • Ken

    |

    After shooting 5 weddings with the B1 in both traditional San Francisco Hotel settings as well as outdoor weddings in Bay Area and Yosemite I have some additional thoughts:
    1) The TTL function is outstanding and becomes very intuitive using on camera flash compensation controls (Canon only for now). I actually only use my Canon 600 RTs, (which I love and have used for 40+ weddings) only for the ceremony now. I prefer my B1 for Prep, Formals, photo tours, groups and reception.
    2) For the most part two batteries are needed for all day weddings, especially if their is significant outdoor shooting. For situations where two photographers will be sharing a B1 and there is outdoor work 3 batteries are a must.
    3) I shoot with with cameras and moving the air remote between two cameras is a pain. You WILL need two air remotes if you shoot with two cameras.
    4) Back to the topic of the Priolite versus the B1. Not only is the TTL an additional advantage, but the fact that the B1 goes down to power level 2, 9 stops below, 500w/s is essential. In prep I often need to use the lowest power level (2) on the B1 in regular size hotel rooms, double diffused (two stops of light scrubbed of the the bare strobe) in an Rotalux Deep Octa 39. Bottom line,: Any light that can’t be attenuated that low will be extremely problematic in smaller settings.
    5) Mixing the B1s with the Canon 600 Rt is a pain in the butt. I tried using the 600s with the B1 in photo slave mode and the 600s had to be put in manual mode, otherwise the pre flash would set them off. I wish profoto would come out with a Speedlight that worked with the system, i would buy it in an instant, and never use the 600s again. That’s all I want is a scalable flash solution on one platform. All the Profoto speedlight would need to have are the same options as the B1, except have the option let the B1 fire anyway if the Profoto Speedlight it is recharging or overheating.

    Reply

  • david

    |

    I think profoto would never release profoto speedlight. It’s not their philosophy.

    Reply

  • Ken

    |

    You may be right. But a speed light with an integrated Air Remote would vastly expand what the B1 could do and make many pros who use Profoto very happy. For me I’d sell all of my Canon 600 RTs. Ok enough of” what would be nice.” I am really enjoying exploring what the B1 system can do. I very am fortunate to have weddings in Yosemite “experiment ” with.

    Question: What light shaper do other pros use to for outdoor weddings and portraits? Group shots? I use a Magnum to recreate sunlight. So far happy but always looking for other options. Softboxes and umbrellas are often problematic due tot he winds here in Yosemite and San Francisco. Any other suggestions? How about the Wide Zoom reflector?

    Reply

  • Ihaja

    |

    Hello!

    How can I set the B1 flash manually in Freeze mode without using the Air remote nor Air remote TTL controller? I do not own neither of them and I would like to set my B1 to freeze mode but I don’t know how on my flash.
    Thanks in advance for answering me.

    Reply

    • Henrik

      |

      Hi Ihaja,

      How about you reading the manual?

      Press the big button at the same time as the test buttom. This will switch to freeze mode. It’s the same when you want to switch back.

      /henrik

      Reply

      • Ihaja

        |

        Thank you. Indeed this was in the manual…

        Reply

  • Vladimir

    |

    Hi all,
    just watching one another webinar on B1, and once again heared “it’s 10 times more powerful than one speedlite”. I just got my B1 a few days ago and was testing it, especially comparing to my 600ex-rts. I tried a few modifiers (shoot through, white umbrella, wall at different distance with different zoom of 600ex-rt). In my tests B1 (full power) never beats 5 600ex-rts (full power), “almost four” is good equivalent.
    Has anyone compared B1 to any speedlights (speedlites) ? What’s your opinion on it? Is there any ideas of specific configurations to test them I might not aware of?
    Thanks in advance
    Vladimir

    Reply

    • Ihaja

      |

      Hi,

      Me too I bought my B1 one week ago. I also made some comparative tests with my speedlights and even a 380Ws speedlight from an another brand. I used a flashmeter during all my tests with the same distance between the lights and the flashmeter. The 380Ws speedlight, with a standard silver reflector is more powerful than the Profoto B1 bare head, both at full power… I ran the tests several times to be sure of the results ant they were the same everytime. This was also the case with 58GN speedlites. But I wonder if the results will be different using the standard reflector on the B1.
      I’m also waiting for your opinions on it.
      Thanks.

      Reply

      • Henrik

        |

        I had eight 600-ex’s but I’ve downsized to 2 after I bought 2 B1’s. I would say from a feeling – not measured – that one B1 is equal in power to maximum 3 600-ex’s. It’s not even near to the announced 10 speedlights, but the benefit of easy to use – including all the modiferes – comparing to the bracket-hell with the speedlights makes the B1 to a very fine off camera flash for mee. I’m very excited to see the HSS later this year – how many f-stops will the HSS mode take?

        /henrik

        Reply

      • Robert Martinu

        |

        Same distance is likely the key. The B1 on its own emits its light in a very broad cone -it has to fill the various light shapers after all- while a standard reflector tends to be more concentrated. Then you have to factor in how even the projected circle of light is. Think of a standard vs. magnum reflector set to create equal sized spots, they’ll give you quite different light distributions.
        The easiest way for a valid comparison would involve emulating an ulbricht sphere, just one measurement and no integral calculations involved.
        Even worse with speedlights and their irregular light patterns.

        Reply

  • Miguel Mercaco

    |

    I already have two b1 now, but how can i use the quick burst feature on it?
    dindt see it on the manual, you guys just said is there but nothing shows up about how can i use it practicly.

    Hope you can help me, thanks.

    Reply

  • John Hassett

    |

    I am a Nikon shooter-If I bought the current version of the B1, will I be able to do a “firmware” update when the Nikon TTL version comes out? Or will it be a different B1 unit? Please let me know ASAP.
    Thanks!
    John Hassett

    Reply

    • Vladimir

      |

      John,
      The unit will be the same, but on camera transmitter will be different (-N)
      Regards,
      Vladimir

      Reply

  • Bogdan Condor

    |

    I recently purchased a B1 and after doing some comparison tests at home with my Einsteins, I’m a little disappointed. My main issue with the B1 is the way it spreads the light with a reflector.
    I shoot weddings, and I’m using a PCB Einstein with the 7 in reflector 100% of the time. I usually point the strobe up 30-45 degrees, to get a smooth light falloff on the subject. It works great for me. No umbrellas, softboxes, etc. I need to move quick, and that is the reason the B1 was so appealing to me. I also purchased a Zoom Reflector 2. Unfortunately, there’s no way you can get a smooth transition from shadows to highlights with the B1. I suspect this has to do with the way the way the flash tube and the built-in reflector are designed.
    I did some research online, and I read in a couple of places that the glass dome would somehow solve the problem. Can anybody advise me on this issue?
    Thank you!

    Reply

    • arthur argote

      |

      Hello Bogdan!

      I;m a fellow user here. I would say is that the difference between your einstein and the B1 i that the einstein has a bare bulb inside the reflector. the B1 has a built in 71 deg reflector. So putting a reflector on your B1 is like putting a reflector on a 71 deg reflector! The solution would be to swap out the default flat frosted glass from of the B1 an replace it with the dome glass (often listed as the D1 glass dome but it fix the B1). You will find it here:

      http://profoto.com/int/products/accessories/item/glass-cover-d1-frosted

      This will mimic the frosted light cover on the einstein. It claims no loss in light transmission, i.e. no loss in stops.

      use the dome glass cover in conjunction with your zoom reflector and please report back with the results.

      The first accessory I got the day I purchased the B1 was the glass dome. A requisite for those used to the “bare bulb” effect in a reflector. I just wish they and a hard cover protector for it!

      Reply

  • Rpallagi

    |

    Hss hss hSs hSs Hss HSs HSS HsS hsS give us hss hss hss hss. Without hss this light is nice and solid but not nice enough to prefer it over hss canon flashes or just regular off camera flashes. It was a marketing mistake not to include hss in the first place. With it this stuff would be in shortage. Until then its a zune….

    Reply

    • david

      |

      whilst I concede that HSS will make the B1 even more useful, the B1 is quite an amazing flash without.

      even without HSS the B1 seems popular (judging by availability here in the UK), and that’s even before TTL for Nikon

      Reply

    • Henrik

      |

      IMO it was a marketing huge to include TTL over HSS.

      /henrik

      Reply

      • Henrik

        |

        Try this :-) : IMO it was a huge marketing mistake to include TTL over HSS.

        /henrik

        Reply

  • kameraguy

    |

    Hi, can someone help me confirm the country of manufaktur for the B1? I am hoping it is not China.

    Reply

  • Mark

    |

    Why? Everything is made in China, including your iPhone.

    Reply

    • kameraguy

      |

      Well, that simply isn’t true. Hensel is made in Germany as an example. It’s a simple question. Where are these made? For some of us, it matters.

      Reply

  • Mark

    |

    It was an oversimplification. I owned Hensel and Elinchrom. Quality of Profoto is higher. I’ll look when I get home.

    Reply

  • Mark

    |

    So I examined the light and it’s packaging and I do not see a place of manufacture. The company as you know is from Sweden. There’s a metal/foil looking label on bottom of the light. I don’t see any “made in” there or on any of the paperwork.

    Reply

    • kameraguy

      |

      I haven’t received my B1 orders yet so I appreciate you checking. Interestingly, I also checked one of my Compact 600R units and it too does not say where it was manufactured. I would like to assume Sweden, as hopefully the B1. I’ve sent an email to Profoto to clarify. I realize peopel may not care where they are manufactured as long as they are built up to high standards and quality. For me, there are items that i do care, if anything for peace of mind. My Hensels have never missed a beat, and neither have my existing Profoto gear. But because I have seen so many battery-powered monolights from China, I was just curious if perhaps Profoto has the B1 manufactured there too. Mainly an FYI for those who care to know at this point.

      Reply

      • kameraguy

        |

        I received confirmation from Profoto support that the is manufactured in Ronneby, in the south of Sweden. This is true for the Compact series as well.

        Reply

  • kameraguy

    |

    I meant to say “the B1″ is manufactured in Ronneby, in the south of Sweden, per Profoto support.

    Reply

  • Arthur Argote

    |

    They B1 flash unit doesn’t state the origin of manufacturer. I almost took it as a point of pride for the Swedes to say “must you ask!”. ;D However the air TTl remote is made in china and I must say it has the cheap feel of china, with all due respect.

    The Canon ST-rT-e3 remote is made in Japan and is of much higher quality than the Air remote and comes with a great little case. C’mon Profoto, shame shame!!! The canon 600EX-rt are also made in Japan.

    On a side bar, I noticed that the Canon 40mm pancake lens and the EOS-M camera and EF-M lenses are NOT made in japan and the lenses twist on with more friction, i.e. less tolerances than the Japanese canon cameras.

    So when someone complains, especially a fellow american, about the high price of a canon 5DIII or even the swedish made B1’s, I remind them how expensive an american worker is and our standard of living, as is a japanese worker or swedish worker… don’t you want to support that standard of living, or do you want to support the prison labor camps or sweat shops in asia? Because that is the TRUE human price of a cheap knock off. Just something to think about.

    Reply

  • kaneraguy

    |

    Arthur, what you write is a similar reason to why I asked. To hear the ttl remote is made in china is a bummer considering it’s cost. Although I guess that’s not uncommon now and there are goods from china that are manufactured well, I keep reading how cheaply made the ttl remote is. Profoto, if you are reading this, please consider bringing all manufacturing in house. At the very least, it seems you need to work on the quality of the made in china remotes.

    Reply

    • Bogdan Condor

      |

      What really annoys me is not necessary the plastic itself, or the buttons, I think they’re alright. What really bugs me is how tight the remote sits in the camera’s hotshoe, even in the “unlock” position. I literally have to wrestle to get it out, and from what I’m reading, they are all the same. I wonder who’s the genius who approved that and what was the reasoning. Canon’s ST-E3 remote it goes in and out really smooth, what’s wrong with that design, mister?

      Reply

    • Arthur argote

      |

      I believe the st-rt-e3 remote by canon sets the bar and it is high. It’s a premium remote for pros, hence it high quality manufacture in Japan. It’s made for pros. As is the 600ex-rt flash head. My 270ex not so much. Hence it’s Chinese origin; it’s a product targeting the consumer market.

      That’s what the TTL-C says to me. consumer market, not pro.

      I sure do hope there’s a Markii in the works ;). While I understand the flash head not being weather resistant, it is likely that the remote should match the weather resistance of the camera and the newer canon lenses. It’s likely that the camera will be in the muckity muck while even just 5-10 feet away the strobe would be in the clear.

      Reply

  • Mark

    |

    I completely agree about the super tight fit of the remote. As good as the light is, Profoto has dropped the ball in many respects. Shame.

    Reply

  • Ken Mendoza

    |

    First of all, having the used the B1 and both Profoto Air Remote & Profoto Canon TTL Remotes for at least 15 weddings, since April, there is no doubt that the Profoto Canon TTL remote fits too tight and needs to be wiggled back & forth out of hotshoe on the 7D, 5 Mark II & 5D Mark III (these are the only ones I have tried). I often have to take remote off since the Profoto Canon TTL remote somehow gives a signal to the camer, that a flash is connected, EVEN WHEN TURNED OFF.

    I have had to have my Mark III hotshot repaired because the wiggle I need to perform on the Mark III (my main camera)to remove the remote, has little by little loosened the hotshoe. In the middle of a wedding I had to stop using my Mark III as my main camera because of a loose hotshoe. I had to shoot two weddings using my Mark II as my main camera!. Not fun, to say the least. I anticipate having to repair my Mark III once more this wedding season.

    Instead of making negative comments towards Profoto, I am sending this as info in the spirit as a full-time professional that just loves the B1. The B1 has changed my photography and now I rarely use my speedlights, except when I have to be extremely mobile.

    IMHO the key here is how Profoto deals with the issue (as a point of comparison to say Nikon and how they have dealt with problems D800, D600 problems) that counts.

    One the plus side, the settings are the easiest to read of any flash remote (in both light and dark conditions) and the angle that the controls sit are perfect, compared to say the Canon ST-e3 or the Pocket Wizard MiniTT1 or or Flex TT5. With Profoto ,I can quickly see the settings without tilting my camera and waisting valuable time.

    In conclusion, I ask respectfully ask Profoto to :

    1) Fix the the overly tight hot shoe
    2) Provide a solution for the Air remote TTL from telling the camera a flash is connected, when turned off

    Feature requests

    1) Make the TTL Air remotes weather sealed
    2) Replace the flimsy battery door

    Thank you

    Ken Mendoza
    Duendephoto.com
    Yosemiteweddingphotographers.com

    Reply

    • kameraguy

      |

      Ken, good observation on the TTL-C remote signaling to the camera that a flash is connected all the time regardless if the unit is off. I don’t recall the Canon ST-e2 doing that.

      Reply

    • Arthur argote

      |

      Hey Ken,

      Mine too have a tighter than usual fit but I don’t think its as tight as yours.

      One DIY suggestion if you feel bold: the TTL-C has these two metal clips at either side that compress as you push it in. I sense the friction as these two contact the hot shoe and compress to go in. You could attempt to permanently compress these down with needle nose pliers, or perhaps asking a camera repair shop to do it as they have the tools and experience.

      The logic being that I see that the pins that are compressed below the TTL-C appear to also apply pressure to insert AND you have a locking pin. These two may be enough to keep the TTL-C on you camera as it’s very light. The spring clips at the top seem like overkill and could be exasperating any tolerance issues that may exist from manufacturing.

      A more benign approach is to get a hotshoe pass thru (they are usually to add a hot sync connector to cameras that lack them), and attach that between your canon and the TTL-C. You can leave it permanently on the TTL-C and have, likely, a smoother connector for your canon. It would raise the TTL-C about an inch though.

      You can find such connectors at camera stores.

      Flash zebras makes them:
      Item #0268 Canon Camera ETTL Pass Through Hotshoe with Screwlock PC Sync Port.

      Again, not ideal.

      Another thing Innotice is that if you lift up slightly when you remove & insert the TTL-C, your force compresses the the side clips more and ads in sliding it in and out. This at least alleviates the torquing that you were doing that may be doing more or faster damage to your hot shoe; while not assisting in removing the tension that keeps the TTL-C in place.

      Neither of these are Ideal but they do offer a solution to keep your camera out of the repair shop.

      Lastly, Profoto do need a “Mark II” revision of the TTL-C. As a new profoto customer, while the B1 amazes me, the TTL-C looks like a profit whore. don’t skimp here, Profoto! It’s the weakest link in the chain that the B1 will be judged by. Reverse engineering ain’t cheap, I understand that. But look at the quality that the canon ST-RT-E3 remote has, and more important its robustness. It has to equal that. You are now in the “off camera flash” world and it’s cold, dusty and wet!

      Reply

  • kameraguy

    |

    I just received my B1s and Air remote and Air remote TTL-C.

    I agree that for the cost of these remotes, as well as the reputation of Profoto, the battery doors of the remotes are not great. And it would be awesome had they been water resistant. I also wish the buttons were ever so slightly backlit as an option.

    However, I guess I got lucky in regards to how the remotes fit on my hotshoes. I was expecting a crazy tight fit, but luckily both of my remotes for snug, but not unreasonably tight. I tried on all my Canon and Leica M cameras and no problems. It is a tight fit, but more-so due to precise tolerances. Mine slide in and out with firm pressure if pushed in and out with thumb pressure exactly parallel to the mount from the base of the remote. Perhaps manufacturing changed if I received a newer batch, I don’t know.

    Will need some good time to test the B1s, but so far I’m already impressed with the TTL operation and how easy to move to manual once an initial TTL exposure is made. Exciting new way to work in fast situations.

    Reply

  • Emil Stancu

    |

    Very good flash, a representative office in Romania to look and see what can be real :)

    Reply

  • Chris Ison

    |

    Hi;
    I see you now have the B1 working with the 1Dx, great news.
    How about high speed sync? Any developments? This is the only thing stopping me from buying the lights right now!
    Thanks;
    Chris

    Reply

  • peter hayward

    |

    Just gone over to the Sony A7-love your product. Will I be able to use it with the Sony A7?

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Peter,

      You can sync and control the B1 by using the standard Air Remote. But you can’t do TTL unless you have a Canon.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • kamerguy

    |

    Peter, in case you aren’t already aware, you can use the B1 flash with any camera in full manual with the standard Air Remote. As for TTL, my guess is “if” Sony will be supported, that will probably won’t be for a long while. Nikon folks are still waiting for the TTL-N remote, and that was an actual advertised product. I have not seen any mention of Sony TTL support so far.

    Reply

  • Ken Mendoza

    |

    Kameraguy, thanks for your info. I should have mentioned the the older Air remotes fit perfectly on a wide variety of cameras. I tried mine on a Canon, 7D, 5D Mark II, 5D Mark II, D3s, D7000 and yes an old D70 which syncs with a B1 to 1/1600 second with its eletro-mechanical shutter!

    Anyay, back to the topic.

    I’d like to ask new owners of Air Remote TTL C about the hotshoe fit with their cameras. I am wondering if the fit has changed in recent production runs of the unit. Kameraguy seems to have a good experience. I am wondering if I should ask Profoto to check the unit. This is especially salient, if the latest production runs have better fitting hotshoes. Thanks in advance for any info you may have.

    Reply

  • Henrik

    |

    Hi Ken,

    My version of the TTL-C fits my 1dx/1d4 very well. It’s a bit tight, but nothing that would damage the hotshoe at all. I recieved it medio marts, so I guess it’s from a second or third production.

    Btw I don’t think we will get any more answers from Profoto in this thread. The last reply from Fredrik Franzén, Profoto is from April 29. He used to reply in a day or two. We can only hope it’s because the are so busy developing the HSS :-)

    /henrik

    Reply

  • Vladimir

    |

    TTL-C sits well on my 1DmkIV, slightly tight, but ok, comparing to my 20D and 600D… It’s really hard to get out from 20D.
    Classic air remote a bit easier to remove from all the cameras including Fuji X-T1

    Regards,
    Vladimir

    Reply

  • Michael

    |

    Firstly, very, very sad that Profoto’s (Fredrik) last response here was in April.

    Secondly, I have to wrestle the TTL-C from both my 5DIII’s.

    Thirdly, I must say that I bought the B1’s with great expectations but I am disappointed and have reverted back to using my cranky old Jinbei’s 8/10 times. The combination of only 500W and lack of HSS is a huge limitation for the majority of work I do.

    I, as with sooo many others, hope they resolve the HSS soon and introduce a 1000w version. Then we are talking.

    Regards
    Michael

    Reply

  • Fredrik Franzén

    Fredrik Franzén

    |

    Hi Michael,

    The only reason why we (or rather I) didn’t reply was that you guys seemed to be doing alright by yourself. Didn’t want to interfere in your discussion, that’s all. :-)

    Cheers,
    Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

    Reply

    • Debi

      |

      Hi Fredrik,
      Two questions: First, any update on when we can look forward to the Nikon TTL remote? Second, a B&H rep told me today that they expect Profoto to offer a trade in for the TTL-N for those who go ahead and buy the air remote now and upgrade when the TTL-N becomes available. Is that the case, and if so, will the trade in cost be the difference between the original new air remote price and the TTL-N price? Wanted to double check with you before buying the B1 system as I await Nikon compatibility.
      Thanks!
      Best,
      Debi

      Reply

      • Steve

        |

        I’m not Fredrik, but I can answer your questions.

        1. In talking to a Profoto rep, it sounded like the Nikon version should be out this fall, and will most likely be introduced at Photokina in September, to coincide with all the hype surrounding that event.

        The rep did not act like this was any big secret, so I don’t think I’m spoiling anything here, although Profoto may not want to officially confirm one way or the other.

        2. Regarding the promotion, this has already been going on for a few months. I’m surprised your dealer didn’t know this. He should get with his Profoto rep and get up to speed.

        Basically you buy the AIR remote now, then when the Nikon version comes out, you trade it in and pay the difference, which should be about $100, assuming the Nikon version is the same price as the Canon one. That way you can at least use the AIR remote to control the B1’s now while you’re waiting.

        Note that this only applies to the $300 AIR Remote, and not the cheaper $200 AIR Sync (the one that only triggers the flash, but does not let you adjust the light’s power up and down).

        Reply

        • Debi

          |

          Thanks Steve!

          Reply

  • mikeojohnson

    |

    Another interest in HSS. Posting to stay in the loop.
    Mike

    Reply

  • Wolfram

    |

    Hi, Fredrik Franzen!

    What I do not fully understand up to now:
    Using two b1 in ttl mode (lets say A and B) and I want to have them to work with different power (lets say A shout light 2 stops brighter than B) I have two possibilities:
    1.) put A on +2.0
    2.) put B on – 2.0
    whats the difference?

    Reply

  • plevyadophy

    |

    Wolfram,

    Option 2, would give you faster recycling and longer battery duration because the demands being placed on the flash output are lower (remember, you are asking the light to output two stops lower than the TTL recommended exposure level)

    Reply

    • Wolfram

      |

      My understanding of ettl is that the exposure can only be changed by changing the settings in the camera. If this is true the +/- is only for the relation between the amount of light between the two lights. Tried several times to get an answer directly from profoto, but it looks like they don´t talk to me.

      Reply

      • Fredrik Franzén

        Fredrik Franzén

        |

        Wolfram,

        You’re right, you can’t change the exposure from the remote, only the relations ship between several B1. So, in the case of the two examples you give, you would get the same result. In other words, there is no difference.

        /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

        Reply

  • Henrik

    |

    Plevyadophy, it’s not a flash exposure compensation but a relationship between the groups for the correct exposure.
    Wolfram, I can’t see there should be any difference.
    And Fredrik Franzen, if you are listening – let’s have a TTL-C Mark ll without the ratio (relationship) and instead let’s control the mode (Manual/TTL) for each group. That would make sense :-))

    /henrik

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Henrik,

      Feedback noted. Thanks!

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Arthur Argote

    |

    Hey gang,

    A quick question on groups. The B1 head unit can be assigned to groups A thru F. The Air TTC remote can only be assigned groups A Thru C. Is there a special button combination to select a group E or F, is there a future firmware version, or is it a legacy feature from the regular air remote that the B1 supports but not the air remote TTL-C? Thanks!

    PS: yes this is in case I win the lottery and can afford to rent, much less own, 5 B1’s! ;D

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Arthur,

      The B1 can only do three groups. Being designed to be portable and easy to use rather than being a full-blown studio flash, the decision was made to keep the Air Remote TTL-C as simple as possible.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Arthur Argote

    |

    One mo’ question for Fredrik, more of a hypothetical….

    Folks have spoken about how to sync canon speedlights to the air remote… or at least expressed a need to do so.

    So far there’s the optical method, either via the B1 being set to slave and, hence, a manual strobe head with the canon radio controlling the radio canon 600RT’s. Or going pocket wizards all around and the B1 set to sync, again a manual head. Or TTL air remote the B1and set up optical triggers with the Canon 600RT’s

    Then there’s the concept of air TTL remote the B1 and trigger the canon 600RT’s via the accessory transceivers from profoto.

    Again, also a manual solution to one set of the flash group.

    Let me ask if this is possible: much of the way canon cameras were reverse engineered to translate the TTL from the canon camera into a signal that the profoto can read, can there be a TTL transceiver that is developed that effectively turns that profoto TTL signal back to the native canon TTL signal? In effect: developing a TTL-C transceiver that can receive the profoto TTL signal from the TTL-C remote and converting it BACK to the canon TTL signal to trigger an attached 600RT? Basically reversing the translation that the TTL-C remote did to get the canon TTL signal into a profoto TTL Signal.

    I’m not going to pretend to understand the reverse engineering process that went into developing the air TTL-C remote as well as the ongoing effort on the TTL-N remote. Nor to understand the reality of supporting the proposed hacked engineering support for the 600RT speedlight. But I thought I’d bring it up as a suggestion for discussion.

    Thanks again!

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Arthur,

      I honestly have no idea. But I’ve forwarded your request to our Product Manager, and will let you know if he has a clever response.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • Janne Kaasalainen

        |

        If feasible, such a new tool would be really nice to be able to use Profoto TTL-N (ahem, Nikon user here) with mostly B1’s but also with Speedlights when situation calls it.

        Reply

    • Felix Wu

      |

      Hi Arthur,

      I am new to profoto and just bought my B1 last week and used it on my first wedding. It managed to set everything out in reception and control both the canon 580 and B1 on camera/trigger. My set up goes like this:

      B1 as main light shaped by an umbrella, triggered by TTL remote, which is locked on the hotshoe of the Yuongnuo YN622C TTL trigger.

      The YN622C is then mounted on my 1Dx hotshoe.

      The Canon 580EXii is used as the rim/side light, mounted on YN622 and secured on a light stand.

      The beauty of this setup brings two distinctive advantages:

      1) you can control both lights using TTL since the yongnuo trigger also supports it. Or you could manually control power in camera menu(this is how you adjust output of speedlite using that trigger.

      2) when you don’t wanna use light at all just turn off the YN622 trigger and the camera will revert your shutter speed if it’s above 1/250! The AirTTL trigger bug is temporarily fixed!

      I really think the Yuongno YN622C’s hotshoe design(also featured on some phottix triggers) is very thoughtful, that way you allow the possibility of using one more trigger/on camera flash. Reliability wise they often outperform my PWplus3. They are so affordable!

      Reply

  • Danny Rivera

    |

    Has there been any reports issued with using a light meter with the B1? I’m using a Sekonic L758DR with the B1 in Manual Mode. It works for a while then I start getting an error on the light meter that saying it’s not giving me a value for the shutter speed. I called Sekonic and they said that many other users have been reporting that Issue. Every is set correctly. Did all the troubleshooting on my end.

    Reply

    • Vladimir

      |

      Hi Danny,

      I had this issue with my 308 Sekonic…. till I realized I was shooting in TTL (B1) which sends pre-flash, than switched to manual and it worked fine :)

      Reply

  • Rogier van Bakel

    |

    Profoto has been promising a Nikon Air TTL remote since LAST YEAR (for the B1 lights) and STILL nothing. It’s getting ridiculous. Also, HSS is a must, and we’re all still waiting for that one too. Kick it up a few notches, Profoto. Empty promises won’t get more customers through the door, nor will it retain existing ones who are starting to feel ignored.

    Reply

  • mark

    |

    The only thing I agree with you on is that they’ve stopped replying to this FAQ, and that is inexcusable and a shame.

    As to anything getting ridiculous, do you think they’re on vacation and not working on it? Don’t you think it’s in their interest to get both HSS and a Nikon version into the market? Have patience. Obviously it’s a lot harder to reverse engineer than you think. Oh, and who told you to shoot Nikon? We all know Canon is better. LOL. -;)

    Reply

    • dawn

      |

      We all know Canon is better???????? Many people might not think so.

      Reply

      • mark

        |

        It was a joke, Dawn, thus my “LOL” and wink.

        Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi Mark,

      I’ve replied to a similar comment elsewhere, but I’ll do it here too, just in case.

      I personally had no idea that you or anybody else felt this way about me not replying to the questions like I used to. My perception was that you guys replied to each other just fine, and I thought it was kind of nice that a little community had sprung up here.

      Evidently, I was wrong. So, we’ll shape up and try to reply to the questions aimed directly at us!

      All the best,
      Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

  • Plevyadophy

    |

    @Mark,

    Hi,
    To be honest, I am bored with the tired old excuse that it must be oh so difficult for Profoto to reverse engineer the Canon TTL protocol.

    Given the high prices that Profoto charge for their gear and their position in the market as a premium brand, there should be no excuses.

    Smaller Hong Kong and Chinese brands seem able to reverse engineer the Canon TTL protocol with very few problems whilst also providing additional features such as hyper sync mode. Just look at what the likes of Phottix, Yongnuo, and others are able to achieve in terms of TTL compatibility. Recently, a Chinese company called Canonmark announced a new TTL monobloc (reviewed over at Lighting Rumours) that seems far cleverer in its design than what Profoto are offering e.g. the strobe has a TTL flash foot enabling one to use their existing TTL triggers. And all this from companies that do not charge as much as a small car for their gear!

    The Profoto B1 TTL is an attractive looking piece of kit, is well built and gives off lovely light but it’s all downhill after that as far as I am concerned; compared to other offerings on the market, with regard to TTL, it strikes me as a rather half baked product that would never have left the factory gates had I been in charge of product development ( e.g. the outrageously primitive optical cell trigger that is unable to ignore the pre-flash of TTL Speedlights, which is something $30 flash accessories have been able to do for years ).

    Like Leica did with their S2 camera, I get the impression that Profoto are arrogantly trading on their name thinking that they can sell a half-baked/prototype product, and because of their brand enough folks will buy it whilst Profoto spend time patching it up.

    For the money Profoto are charging, I for one will not be buying it and then spend only God knows how long with my fingers crossed hoping that they will provide features that should have been there from the get go.

    Reply

    • Andreas Timm

      |

      Fully agree with this post. I am willing to pay for quality & brand. But my expectations are hight, too. So Profoto – you need to create customer value – every day! Do not only count on the strength of your brand – this can go away quickly like we all saw with Kodak, Leica, etc.

      Reply

      • mark

        |

        Kodak and Leica? Uh, Kodak was around for over 50 years before the times swept past them. Leica, last time I looked, is still around and their lenses are still sought after. Not a very valid comparison.

        Reply

    • Rogier van Bakel

      |

      Well said.

      Reply

  • mark

    |

    First things first. I have no dog in this fight. I am new to Profoto, having owned Elinchrom Quadra and studio monolights. Before that I owned Hensel monolights.
    I like the B1 Air. Would I like HSS? Yes, just like everyone else. But I’m strictly an amateur and so if it happens this month or this year matters not.

    I don’t think you can compare Chinese companies to Profoto. They’ve only got 3 billion people. They probably have 20 code writers and programmers. Maybe 200, perhaps 2,000. Do you think Profoto has the resources of a Chinese company that in its spare time is making 10 million iPhones and iPads?

    Oh, and one more thing. Last time I looked, Profoto wasn’t forcing you to buy anything. If all those other companies you mention have superior products, spend your money there. If enough people feel they way your do, Profoto will get the message.

    Reply

    • plevyadophy

      |

      Hi Mark,

      Your comments are the very kinda thing that annoys me, and at the same time causes me to admire the marketing and aura of the likes of Apple, Leica, and Profoto. They can produce rubbish, or below par, products and there will always be apologists making excuses for them because of the kudos (perceived or real) of the brand.

      I specifically said that those Chinese companies are smaller than Profoto, and falling victim to the aura of the brand, you switch that to describing them as being huge enterprises much larger than Profoto.

      O.K. so lets run with that notion that the Chinese companies that I mentioned are much larger than Profoto.

      What of U.S. based Quantum? They are tiny. And as far as I am aware, they are the only company that has studio quality lights that are FULLY Canon TTL compatible even going so far as being optical remote TTL compatible and giving you 400W or 800W options (although the latter is really 400 x 2 so that you can run two lights at full power off of one pack). How would you explain that away? Surely, they too don’t have a billion plus population to call upon for staffing? So how have they managed the TTL compatibility? Oh and by the way, they have managed to make their gear compabitble with more than just Canon kit and to have done so years ago.

      Really, these new lights aren’t worth buying. One would be better off with the previous model. If Profoto are gonna try and sell me TTL lights at a premium price they had jolly well better get it right out of the box; I expect flaws and missing features from the cheap eBay brands but not from a premiium brand asking for premium money (I can’t charge anyone money for my services and give them a half-baked product, so I don’t expect to use my hard earned money to buy half-baked products).

      Like I said before, if you take TTL out of the equation its a lovely piece of kit. Unfortunately, Profoto have made TTL part of the equation and the equation doesn’t work out.

      Regards,

      Reply

  • Rogier van Bakel

    |

    “I’m strictly an amateur and so if it happens this month or this year matters not.”

    It certainly matters to those of us who are NOT amateurs.

    “Do you think they’re on vacation and not working on it? Don’t you think it’s in their interest to get both HSS and a Nikon version into the market?”

    Yes, it IS in their best interest. So why are we still waiting? I don’t mind spending the money on a premium product ($4K for a couple of B1 lights, plus thousands worth of Profoto parafernalia), but I expect performance in return. For Nikon shooters, the B1 lights are hobbled, and they won’t live up to their potential until TTL and HSS are introduced. I have money to make, a studio to run, and I’m frankly sick of waiting.

    Reply

  • Ryan

    |

    Can you not make money nor run your studio without TTL or HSS functionality?

    Reply

    • Hussain

      |

      Of course you can, however, we paid premium for those features that were advertised when we bought the B1. Otherwise, the B1 has nothing special about it when you take away those features except that it’s portable.

      I bought the B1 based on the promise in the B1 webinar by Wallace in Dec 2013 that the Nikon remote will be introduced in early 2014. The main reason I bought it is to avoid metering outdoors particularly in light-changing situations and subjects in motion. Remember all the webinars and the Walch biking photo shoot? Yes, that’s what convinced me to buy it due to the ease of use and TTL.

      Anyway, I am sure the guys at Profoto are working hard on the Nikon remote and I am also sure that the fact that Joe Mcnally is using it will boost that, we just hope we are done with all the waiting.

      Reply

  • Ken Mendoza

    |

    Re: your comment “the B1 has nothing special about it when you take away those features except that it’s portable”

    I have now used the B1 for somewhere in the 30,000 exposure range and have to say that I rarely use my Canon 600 EX RT system which with 3 flashes and SET E3 remotes is close to the cost of the B1 System. Also, There is a competing system by Priolite that is about $500 cheaper.

    Here are some observations from a wedding family portrait photography perspective:
    • The recharge time on the B1 is phenomenal. The Canon’s can’t compete in the area nor can the Priolite. I can reel off at least 4 and often, 6 perfectly lit shots during the bouquet toss during a wedding. Try that with a Canon or Nikon Speedlite!
    • The fast recharge is awesome for group shots. The B1 powers large beautiful light shapers that small flashes can’t. Also, the fast recharge time helps get me through large lists group shots more quickly.
    • For long events fiddling with batteries is a thing of the past. I happen to have a full Quantum Turbo battery setup for my speedlites, and still there is no comparison. Two B1 batteries is sufficient for all but the longest weddings.
    • Freeze mode. The freeze mode allows the capture of incredibly fast movement that most flashes can’ touch. The extra clarity of stopping most ion makes for awesome pics that stand out.
    • Dynamic Range. Portable flash has the range of power that the B1 has, With light shapers I can use the B1 in a small room for wedding prep and then later in the day take it out and light up a couple with perfect light in a meadow in Yosemite. I have only on a few occasions wished I had 1000 watt flash but never have I needed to go lower than its lowest setting. With Canon & Nikon flashes you have do the Joe Mcnally Tri-flash thing for bright outdoor settings with soft boxes. With the Priolite you only have stops of range and therefore forget, wedding prep, forget Churches or small receptions. Not much $$ saved in my book.

    I know its frustrating if you shoot Nikon. My Wife shoots Nikon and watches me with the Canon Air Remote green with envy. But All I can say that besides my purchase of the 5D Mark III the B1 has been my greatest upgrade in 9 years of professional photography. No its not just portability. I can’t wait for HSS but meanwhile IMHO, the B1 is worth every penny.

    Reply

  • zeki

    |

    for outdoor portrait photography is best has

    Reply

  • zeki

    |

    hi i m a wedding and family photographer i love profoto lighting qualitet
    b1 good review but for outdoor portrait photography best hss hope profoto
    maket

    Reply

  • Fredrik

    |

    Is it possible to use the B1 and trigger the 600ex-rt speedlights from Canon?

    Reply

  • Simon Dallinger Photography

    |

    The problem I have is when the Air remote is on the camera (canon 5dmark3) and the remote is turned off the camera will not let me raise the shutter speed above 200th sec even when you unit is turned off.

    I do not know of another produce that does this, it is very painful to have to remove the air remote if I wish to do a shot with out flash on higher shutter speed and then re mount it to use the flash again.

    I have tried it on different cameras and it still happens.

    Reply

    • Andreas Timm

      |

      Same on the 1DX. Agree its anoying.

      Reply

      • Colin Mulcahy

        |

        Same situation with myself. The Remote is a nice tight fit on the camera.

        When turned off and mounted I get the following restrictions.

        5D MKIII (/1200)
        1DX (1/250)

        I need to be able to turn the remote on and off as desired. Don’t have this issue with any other manufactures including Pocket wizards or Canon’s Wireless remote for 600Ex’s.

        Please fix.:-)

        Reply

  • kameraguy

    |

    Agreed on air remoe TTL restricting full shutter control when turned off.

    Profoto, I hope you can revise the air TTL design so it won’t do this, and offer an upgrade for us who have purchased it already.

    Reply

  • David

    |

    What are the latest updates on the Nikon Air TTL-N? Can you offer any update on timeframe for a release date?

    Reply

      • David

        |

        will the TTL-N be compatible with the Nikon D3s and D700? Also, I have a concern with regards to the D3s. The D3s doesn’t have a Flash Compensation Button. How would I adjust the TTL output with a FEC control on my camera?

        Reply

  • James Eaton

    |

    Fredrik,

    Can you please update us on when HSS will be available?

    Thank you.

    Reply

    • Fredrik Franzén

      Fredrik Franzén

      |

      Hi James,

      Too early to give an exact date.

      /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

      Reply

      • kameraguy

        |

        Hi Fredrik,

        “too early” to give an exact date doesn’t sound too confidence inspiring given the year is more than half-way done. Perhaps can you give us some glimmer of hope we’ll see HSS before the year is over?

        Reply

        • Fredrik Franzén

          Fredrik Franzén

          |

          Hi,

          Before the year is over, yes.

          /Fredrik Franzén, Profoto

          Reply

          • Keith

            |

            I will assume the HSS will be available to both brands at the same time before the end of 2014?.

            Reply

          • Mark

            |

            That would be interesting to know!

            Reply

  • Jorge

    |

    I just brought it a couple days ago, it’s so annoying HSS doesn’t work.

    Reply

    • Ryan

      |

      Don’t you think you should have done enough research before you bought it to know that HSS is not a function of the B1???

      Reply

  • Jackie Allen

    |

    Is there/will there be an AC adapter option for the flash?

    Reply

  • Jon

    |

    I’m interested in the Profoto Deep White 65” umbrella and B1 combination. Dumb question from someone who values ease of use:

    To set this 3 lb. modifier up, it just slides right into the the B1 umbrella slot? An easy fit done in seconds? No umbrella “lock” needed? And then, you put the B1 with umbrella on top of a sturdy top-tier light stand and, assuming a no wind environment, the whole thing won’t tip over?

    Reply

    • kam

      |

      Jon, I use the XL deep umbrella with the B1 with Kupo master c-stands (heavy duty). Yes, the umbrella slides right into the B1. Fast to insert and remove, yet there is decent enough friction to keep the umbrella inserted at different angles. You wouldn’t want to put this setup (or even just the B1) on top of any stand that isn’t bagged though. It’s highly prone to tip over so you need to do what you can to secure the stand (this is always a best practice with any stand).

      Reply

    • Steve

      |

      Jon,

      Yes, the Profoto umbrella, or any brand of standard umbrella, just slides into the slot and friction holds it in. When I say standard, I mean any brand that uses an 8mm shaft, which is most brands (other than Elinchrom, who does their own thing).

      As for tipping over, you’ll just need need to experiment, and make sure to tighten the tilt lever, and make sure the light is secured onto the stand. The same applies to other modifiers like softboxes. With no wind, it shouldn’t be much of an issue, but you may want to get in the habit of bring sandbags with you and having them available just in case. And try to use a decent stand, not a flimsy one. C-stands are the best, but if not, then a reasonably sturdy stand.

      Reply

    • Steve Holmes

      |

      I use my B1s on location all of the time, and I never have issues with them tipping over. Sure, if it’s windy, you need an assistant or sand bags, but that is the case with all lights. The B1s are the best location light I have used.

      Reply

  • Bogdan C.

    |

    Jon, i have a B1, and honestly, even without any modifiers, I’m always afraid it will tip over. I’m still debating to return the B1 to B&H. You’re OK if you put the B1 on a flat surface and no wind. A studio for example. But then why buy the B1 and not the D1…Otherwise I like the B1, but definitely it’s not what it’s advertise to be: a highly mobile strobe. For work on location, you need either an assistant or sandbags, which defeats its purpose…

    Reply

  • Dave

    |

    I use my B1s on location. In outdoor conditions, I always bag my stands. The advantage of The B1 is The extreme portability. I don’t mean that you can put them on your back, I mean that I don’t need mains power. I can go as far as my jeep will take me and have high power professional quality light. That is very valuable! Once HSS is working, the B1 will be my only location light. I have a set of four B1s.

    Reply

  • Christophe

    |

    Hi Frederik !

    Any news about the HSS availability ? :)

    Reply

  • Colin Mulcahy

    |

    Any update on the air remote TTL restricting full shutter control when mounted and turned off?

    Reply

    • Morten S.

      |

      +1000. I was shaking my head saying to myself “really?! You’ve got to be kidding me” when I encountered this.

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Colin,

      We are working to resolve it in a future firmware release.

      Reply

      • Colin Mulcahy

        |

        Rebecca, Thanks for the update. Hope it comes soon… :0)

        Reply

  • Stefan

    |

    HSS Would be so Great! I Would buy 3 flashes! Any news when hss will be released?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      We are working hard on the HSS. Unfortunately, we can’t give you an exact release date just yet.

      Reply

      • Jason

        |

        That is good to know. End of the year is approaching fast. I just hope it won’t be a “December 31st” release, it would be nice to use it sooner than later :)

        Reply

        • Morten S.

          |

          i am not sure how smaller companies in China are able to produce portable strobes that have HSS, but a company like Profoto cannot. For the price of these units, it would have been nice to have had HSS from day one. Perhaps it’s better to never say a feature will be supported when the ETA is vague.

          Reply

  • Ray

    |

    Just purchased the kit with nikon air remote, If I had access to the engineers I would ask them to wake up the remote when the camera is activated and when the remote wakes up that it remembers the sync mode it was in when it went to sleep. It always defaults to TTL.

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Mutlu.

      Looks like there is something wrong with the display. Contact your local retailer and they will help you.

      Reply

  • Mutlu

    |

    Dear Rebecca,

    I order from USA but I live in Turkey. Normally this product have two years warranty. Can I contact with local dealer? Do they have the right to say we do not do?

    Thank you.

    Mutlu

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Mutlu.

      We will contact you on your e-mail regarding this matter.

      Best Regards
      Rebecca Ahremark

      Reply

      • Mutlu

        |

        Hi Rebecca,

        They are contact with me. And If I pay service and spare part fee, they are help me.

        I read warranty guide and wrote: “Profoto or an authorised Profoto service center provides warranty service in the country of original purchase for product for which service is requested during the warranty period in accordance with the provisions of applicable law.”

        This is not good but I understand, and I don’t want to pay any extra service and spare part fee for product failure under warranty. I will use thus.

        Thank you for your interest.

        Mutlu

        Reply

  • Franck Goldberg

    |

    Hi, I’m just starting with the B1. My Canon 6d has many limitations, specially the sync speed (180.). I often shoot kids who can be very fast…. So to remedy this I’m thinking of using my Canon Speedlight on camera in High Speed Sync mode to trigger the B1in slave and manual mode. Would that work?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi! Your set-up with speedlight and B1 in combination will work, however I recommend you to turn your speedlights also in to manual mode as the pre-flash might tigger the B1. Also, please note that we will in the near future release an updated firmware to B1 with HSS functionality.

      Reply

      • Franck Goldberg

        |

        Thank you, I will try it, and see how it goes… After shooting a few tests this week, I just want to say the B1 is simply AMAZING! Looking at the results, mostly working intuitively on location, has given me and potential clients the confidence that I should indeed go full time as a pro-photographer. Thank You!

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          It makes us really happy to hear that. :) Good luck!

          Reply

  • Christophe

    |

    Hello,

    AirTTL-N is working on Nikon D750 ? Anyone tested it ?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      We have not tested it yet but it is in the plan.

      Reply

  • Cevat

    |

    H?. I’ve bought new profoto b1 500 and ttl-c but I couldn’t step up camera’s shutter speed than 1/250. How can I step up shutter speed. I have got canon 6d/7d. Thank you.

    Reply

    • Mutlu

      |

      Hi Cevat!

      Profoto working on HSS but they can’t give an exact release date just yet. Maybe you can use Freeze mode if you work in little dark place.

      Please contact with me today on http://www.kurtbas.com/contact/ if you live in Turkey.

      Thank you.

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      The camera has the maximum flash sync speed of 1/250s. To go faster you need a HSS compatible flash. At the moment B1 cannot do HSS but in the near future we plan to release a firmware update with HSS compatibility.

      Reply

  • Raddy

    |

    Does TTL-N work with D7000 and D810?

    Reply

  • Tommy

    |

    I was able to rent the B1’s from Adorama for one of my shoots. I was completely sold with the idea of how great they perform. Also, like how portable they are with DC power use. But like to know if they will ever come out with an all in one AC & DC version to shoot both for studio and field? I like the idea that I can just plug it straight to the AC outlet and not have to worry about charging batteries or having to keep them in cyclic mode so they do drain or die.

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Tommy! Glad you like our B1 Off-Camera Flash! But the B1 won’t come with both AC & DC because an adapter would make the B1 less portable and much pricier.

      Reply

  • Mark

    |

    That’s a bit silly and incorrect. Why would it make it less portable? Or more pricy? An AC adapter can be a separately purchased item. For those who need it. It can be wired through a dummy battery just like Canon 1 Series cameras. Can’t can’t can’t. How bout hiring some can-do people.

    Reply

  • Darius

    |

    Couldn’t agree more with Mark’s post. I am actually holding out purchasing B1’s until AC adapters become available. Until then, it’s PCB Einstein with PW ControlTL capability for me.

    Reply

  • Dave

    |

    I agree that less portability and increased price are not reasons that reflect customer interests. We are asking for an AC adapter, and we are willing to carry it. We are asking for an AC adapter, and we are willing to pay for it.

    Citing the cost as a deterent on a $2000.00 strobe is misaligned. The customers willing to pay for the B1 are not going to flinch at the cost of an AC adapter. We are willing to pay the high cost of The battery chargers. This is no different.

    Citing decreased portability is also misaligned. If we are going to use the AC adapter, then we are not going to be in a location where carrying an adapter would be highly inconvenient. We are going to be near Mains power.

    It would be less insulting if you would tell us that with an AC adapter, the B1 would have overlap with the D1 and the market overlap would hurt D1 sales. If that isn’t the reason, tell us the reason. But, please don’t tell us that you aren’t considering producing an AC adapter because we don’t want to carry it or pay for it.

    We want to carry it, and we want to pay for it. Please reconsider production of an AC adapter. I will purchase 4 of them, and carry them. Thank you.

    Reply

    • Bogdan

      |

      Dave, why do they have to say that? Isn’t it obvious that’s the reason?

      Reply

    • david

      |

      As an alternative point-of-view.

      Whilst an AC adapter would be nice, I find use in having multiple batteries and two fast chargers.

      The fast charger will charger a completely flat B1 battery in an hour.

      I do an equal mix of studio work and event photography.

      In the studio it is nice to have the B1 mounted on a Manfrotto 231 wheeled stand and need not worry about mains cables.
      Also, the studio I use has an attic area without mains power. When using the D1 it is necessary to use two 20m extension leads.

      For longer events, (2000+ photos) it would be nice to have a AC-adapter such that I might run the B1 directly off an inverter, but that’s mainly because the B1 batteries are quite expensive.
      I simply take an inverter and fast charger.
      The inverter stays in the car, or goes with me if I am away from the car all day.

      I would actually like an extended life battery, or the existing battery to be slightly cheaper, or discounts for multiple batteries.

      Reply

      • Dave

        |

        I thought of using the multiple battery method. I haven’t purchased second batteries for my B1s yet. Currently that looks like the best option for continuous use. I agree that being wireless is wonderful, and as long as the shoot isn’t over 220 shots (if full power) there is no problem.

        If the batteries were less expensive, I agree that is a better option than having AC Adapter wires running to the B1 though they would likely weigh more and be more bulky with their associated charger than an AC adapter.

        I would be purchasing four batteries in this scenario and three more quick chargers +1 from my location kit (for 4 B1s). Also, quick charging the batteries is rough on them and shortens their lifespan which means earlier replacement and thus, higher cost.

        I would rather put that money into light modifiers if possible.

        Reply

        • david

          |

          I asked about fast charging profoto batteries, apparently no degradation in performance.

          I can’t imagine an AC adapter being expensive due to the peak current requirements during recharge.

          An extended life battery would be welcomed. Say double the capacity but not double the price.

          For me, the whole point of the B1 is it’s wirelessness. If I wanted mains powered I would have saved money and bought D1’s.

          It’s tricky balancing both requirements, if only the batteries were more affordable.

          Reply

          • Dave

            |

            I agree. Cost permitting, wireless is better in the studio. There is something magical about the form-factor and independence of the B1. I considered purchasing D1s, but if I am spending the money, I would rather get B1s which is how I ended up with four :)

            If battery prices and quick charger prices came down, there would be no need for AC (unless your setup makes it difficult to get to a B1 to change out the battery).

            Now I need a second backpack.

            Reply

          • Dave

            |

            I just looked at the user guide since I remembered something about the quick charger being hard on the battery. Here is the quote

            “The Profoto Battery Charger 4.5A could be used, but puts more wear on a deeply discharged battery.”

            I wonder what the person telling you about fast charging not degrading battery life performance knows that Profoto doesn’t?

            I also wonder what is considered “deeply discharged?” Is running a B1 until it won’t fire anymore considered “deeply discharged?” If not, then that makes continuous use of a B1 possible with one additional battery and a quick charger, even when shooting at full power (tough to use 250 flashes in an hour, even with fashion).

            Reply

          • david

            |

            I asked during a profoto live webinar.

            In general LiON doesn’t like to be deep cycled.
            Though, even at many hundred charge cycles that’s two to three years use from a battery.

            Perhaps I will go back to using the standard charger when a fast charge isn’t required

            Reply

  • kameraguy

    |

    I agree completely about a separate dummy battery/AC adapter. That would only make sense, and how can anyone NOT benefit from that? Doesn’t mean you need to travel with it. But for studio work that would be awesome. And how hard can that be to devise? Although please let’s get HSS working first :)

    Reply

  • Tommy Torres

    |

    Rebecca Ahremark, I sure hope you’ve read all the posts from Mark, Darius, Dave and Kameraguy on the AC question that I posted? They are all correct and I also think it would be silly to think that making a Dummy AC Battery would make it less portable. Hell I would carry that if you guys made it as a separate purchase item for those like me who work both in Studio and On Location. It makes sense to have DC power for shooting On Location however, it does not make sense to use DC power for Studio. Right now I use 6 Paul C Buff Einstein’s for studio and the unit is still smaller than the Profoto B1’s. But at least PCB gives me the option of plugging to AC and DC when I’m On Locations. This is a win win idea and will certainly increase sales for Profoto. If you really want to satisfy the customers ever increasing expectations this is the only way to do it and you will see how fast they will go out of the store shelves. But for right now I will hold out and continue to use my Einstein;s until I see an AC plug for the unit or some type of AC/DC dummy battery.

    Thank you for the reply to all.

    Tommy

    Reply

  • Henrik

    |

    I go with the choir – let’s have an AC adapter soon after HSS.

    /henrik

    Reply

  • Wolfram Strohschein

    |

    I absolutely support the wish for an AC adapter to be able to use these wonderfull lights also in the studio.

    Reply

  • Rebecca Ahremark

    |

    My apologies if my reply was a bit short and not clear enough.

    What I mean is this: during the design and development of a new product, Profoto’s R&D Department takes hundreds and hundreds of decisions – all based on the initial project plan. In the case of the B1, the plan was to do a compact and portable flash with a professional performance, sold at an affordable price. As a built-in AC Adaptor would’ve made it bulkier and more expensive, the decision was made to go 100% battery-power.

    Regarding a separately sold AC Adaptor, that would be possible, yes! However, our initial research shows that such a product would inevitably be quite large and expensive, so we’re still not sure it’s beneficial enough.

    That being said, your feedback on this is much appreciated! (Needless to say, we want to design and develop products that are of use to you guys!) I’ll notify our Product Manager of this conversation and ask him to look into it. If you have any questions for him, feel free to leave a comment below and I’ll pass it along to him!

    All the best,
    Rebecca

    Reply

    • Felix

      |

      That would be awesome Rebecca. It’s the best news I’ve ever heard since the launch of B1. I just bought my first B1 last week. Love it! I must say I have been holding back to invest more because the lack of AC adapter for B1 to be used in studio. If Profoto can release the AC adapter then many of us could pair our B1 and D1 units together for more demanding shoots. Great news indeed.

      Regards
      Felix

      Reply

      • Rebecca Ahremark

        |

        Hi Felix. Glad to hear that you love your B1. Regarding a separately sold AC Adaptor, we’re still not sure it’s beneficial enough. But I will forward your request to our Product Manager and ask him to look into it.

        Have a great day!

        Reply

  • david

    |

    hmmm, think I replied to the wrong comment
    —-

    As an alternative point-of-view.

    Whilst an AC adapter would be nice, I find use in having multiple batteries and two fast chargers.

    The fast charger will charger a completely flat B1 battery in an hour.

    I do an equal mix of studio work and event photography.

    In the studio it is nice to have the B1 mounted on a Manfrotto 231 wheeled stand and need not worry about mains cables.
    Also, the studio I use has an attic area without mains power. When using the D1 it is necessary to use two 20m extension leads.

    For longer events, (2000+ photos) it would be nice to have a AC-adapter such that I might run the B1 directly off an inverter, but that’s mainly because the B1 batteries are quite expensive.
    I simply take an inverter and fast charger.
    The inverter stays in the car, or goes with me if I am away from the car all day.

    I would actually like an extended life battery, or the existing battery to be slightly cheaper, or discounts for multiple batteries.

    Reply

  • Felix

    |

    Has anyone had any issue with the Air remote TTL-C? Mine went completely idle for about 2 times in my first week of use. So the syndrome is it cannot respond at all, frozen completely until batteries are removed and reinserted. Basically a hard reboot of the trigger. It also had misfires in multiple occasions.

    My friend who has the Air remote(non TTL) on the 5Dmk3 and never had any issue.

    I am using it on Canon1DX so I wonder if there’s still compatibility issue with the 1Dx? Or could the remote being faulty?

    Your thoughts and recommendations would be appreciated.

    Reply

  • Dave

    |

    @Felix I had my Air remote TTL-C freeze on me. It has only happened once. I shoot the 5D Mark III. Pulling the batteries reset it and it was fine. I hope it doesn’t happen often. So far, only one time.

    I also had one B1 stop responding to changes made from the TTL-C. The other B1 was fine. At home I couldn’t reproduce the behavior. I think it may have been radio interference. I haven’t seen that problem again.

    Reply

    • Felix

      |

      Same here I couldn’t reproduce the behavior. I too had my B1 not responding to trigger command. When that happens the trigger stopped responding to your command. So I went and manually adjusted the energy level by dialing the button, then “beep” the B1 is active again.

      I was shooting fashion outdoor yesterday. One battery was certainly not enough. Profoto accessories and mods are so expensive. Wish they could come down in price a bit so it’s more affordable. Do you guys use all profoto mods or mods from other brand? I would really keen to see if there’s much difference in light quality.

      Reply

      • Dave

        |

        I use half Profoto (strip and box) modifiers and half Fotodiox (octobox). Third party umbrellas as well. There is a difference with Profoto modifiers due to the shape, and the materials are more durable. If you are easy on your gear, third party gets similar results. In blind tests, no-one has been able to consistently pick out the images where I have used Profoto vs third party.

        I plan to update much of my modifier collection to profoto, but the Fotodiox easy setup octoboxes are far too convenient to replace.

        I also desire lower cost on Profoto modifiers, or more price breaks offered with bundles. The speed rings alone are very expensive.

        Reply

        • Felix

          |

          Hi guys,

          Been shooting for a whole day long today and I have some new findings/issues about my newly purchased B1.

          1) It’s said the charger that came with B1 would take 2hrs to charge the battery. I usually just left it charging till the next morning. And today when I pressed the battery level indicator button on the battery it showed one empty block. I am pretty sure it’s been charged long enough.

          2) The flash not responding to trigger adjustments as I mentioned previously. I seem to run into this issue way more often in TTL mode: I would normally shoot TTL to test the energy output, then switch B1 to manual to fine tune the energy level. Flash stopped responding usually at this point. So I tried to switch the B1 back to TTL and it suddenly released all the energy at one FULL blast (max power). Then I would have my assistant to dial the energy button using manual mode, flash would then resume back to normal performance.

          So my question is, is there problem with the battery? All that issues seem to point to the battery problem. Or is it the trigger? The flash itself? Your thoughts would be welcomed.

          I will recharge the battery tonight and see if it will still show one empty block tomorrow.

          Reply

  • Tommy Torres

    |

    Rebecca, I was just thinking that Engineering might think that making a dummy battery might require to make an inverter with noisy fans much to added weight to the dummy battery. So if this is not possible, how about using the profotos battery casing and making some type of AC plug in outlet. This way all we need to do is plug a cord onto the units receptacle and plug the three prong end to any AC outlet? Still not possible? then how about just making the AC outlet onto the B1 and we buy any AC/DC converter to our liking for AC in studio use?

    Reply

    • david

      |

      from a technical point-of-view I would suspect a problem might lie with the peak current draw during recharge, that is, a power supply is necessary that can supply a high peak current.

      from a marketing point-of-view, the B1 was sold as a battery powered solution. to me at least, adding a mains tether seems a step backwards. if one desires mains power then surely use AC heads and save a significant sum of money.

      what is the price difference between a B1 and D1 500 Air?
      curious now
      £1554 -vs- £919
      £635 or ~41%

      all supposition though.
      if of any use, the multiple batteries and fast charger solution works very well.
      As I mentioned somewhere above, the fast charger will recharge a completely flat battery in an hour.

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Tommy. I will forward your question to our R&D department.

      Reply

  • david

    |

    I think over charging is very bad for the battery. On whole night charging time is way too long.

    Reply

    • david

      |

      the profoto chargers are smart, the chargers terminate charge upon battery full.

      Reply

  • Darius

    |

    If the charger for the B1 battery packs is unable to recognize when the charge should stop (like a laptop/notebook computer charger does – which also uses a LiOn battery), then I definitely will be holding off purchasing one.

    Reply

    • david

      |

      the Profoto chargers (standard, fast, and car) all have the necessary charge termination as required for a LiON battery.
      haven’t had a battery explode ….yet. :)

      Reply

  • Felix

    |

    That’s exactly what I thought too. Battery chargers nowadays should be smart enough to do that.

    On another note, do you guys find the Air Remote TTL eats battery quite fast? Like if I do a whole day of shooting( using it on and off since I only got 1 B1 battery, the remote will definitely go flat sometime in the middle of my next shoot.

    Reply

  • Felix

    |

    Here comes my most interesting finding. While the Air remote TTL-C is now compatible with Canon 1Dx, I do find it not being 100% reliable. In fact I have experienced intermittent misfiring. However, when I used the B1 with my Canon 5Dmk3, it appears to be very reliable. Has anyone experienced or tested this?

    Reply

  • Anders andersson

    |

    About the hss thing:does anyone know if they work wi pocket wizard mini tt1/tt5? I use them with my elinchrom to do hyper sync and thus override the 1/200 limit.

    Reply

  • Steve Holmes

    |

    I have had the same experience with my 1DX and 5D3. The TTL-C is always more reliable on the 5D3 and does a better job getting the TTL right.

    Reply

    • Felix

      |

      I just noticed although Profoto released firmware to enable TTL with Canon1DX they discovered the bug immediately after that. Based on what people mentioned the syndrome seems to be very similar – B1 randomly burst out in full power in TTL mode.

      The last post there was in April 2014 and it’s now November. I wonder if there’s any update to this firmware fix though. Or have I missed something?

      Current firmware on B1 shows B3.

      Reply

      • Felix

        |

        Update: after taking my flash , trigger and camera to the local distributor we did some tests and found out the trigger was faulty and now sent for repair. Meanwhile they lent me their trigger which now working great on 1DX! Great service from White Studio in NZ. Feeling happy that I could use the B1 the way it should be I bought another battery and the XL silver deep umbrella. Can’t wait to use that on location!

        Reply

  • anders andersson

    |

    Has anyone here used the b1 for hyper sync with pocket wizards? I use that a lot with my current elinchrom quadra, but would like to know how it works with the profoto. I guess HSS would be easier and more reliable way of shooting faster than 1/200s, but hyper sync is a doable way around the “speed limit”.

    Reply

    • Felix

      |

      Only have PWplus3 here. You should test that and let us know. ;)

      Reply

  • Lorenzo. E. Niehof

    |

    what is profoto going to do about the upcoming PHOTTIX Indra500 TTL 500WS HSS Portable Light. can u put all the functions it has in the B1? or maybe e upgraded model B1x with new trigger that can also trigger the camera brand flashes of model and make and integrate a focus beam on the trigger? this are just some ideas I have as a photographer/hardware specialist, and I truly hope that this can be produced. I got some other good ideas that can truly be some game changers but that’s not for free ;-p

    Reply

    • david

      |

      where would be the business sense in Profoto diverting engineering resources to develop a controller for a competitor’s flash system?

      surely it is better business sense for customers to buy into the Profoto system?

      whilst it is possible to fire a B1 and 600EX-RT, there is little point.

      As for Phottix, it is the available modifiers that help to make the B1 truly useful

      Reply

  • Ryan

    |

    Help!

    Using the B1 yesterday I noticed the battery was very loose in its fitting. On closer inspection I realised a tiny piece of plastic which forms part of the housing which holds the battery in place had broken off.

    Has anyone else had this problem and do you think profoto will fix it through the warranty?? I’ve tried to get hold of the UK distributor but to no avail so far.

    Reply

    • Dave

      |

      @Ryan Yep, I had that exact problem. The plastic retainers that support the hinged end of the battery are too thin and fragile. It is the weak point of the B1. I had a B1 fall out of a partially zipped case. It fell one foot onto carpet. The battery was installed and the weight if the battery combined with the impact broke one of the battery retainers. After that, I used gaff tape to hold the hinged end securely.

      Sadly, taping the battery eliminates the quick changing of batteries. I was not able to get warranty repair, and had to replace the B1. I know of two other photographers that have the same problem.

      I think this design would work with a metal housing, but the plastic is susceptible to shock and fracture. I store my B1s with the battery uninstalled in the event of a drop, even in the case. Otherwise, I am careful to bag my stands to avoid accidents while the battery is installed.

      I think that basic impact testing would have revealed this weakness befor manufacturing. As it stands, many users will need to experience the problem before it may be corrected. If a 1000 watt B1 is made, I hope this weakness can be addressed. I also hope for a redesign of the battery retainer on the current B1, but I can’t afford to repurchase the four I own. A warranty replacement of the outside housing with a redesign to correct the problem would be a very positive move by Profoto for public relations and customer service.

      Reply

  • Ryan

    |

    Dave,

    Thanks for your reply.

    As your reply appeared I was on the phone to the UK distributor (who was very helpful). He said that he was not aware of this issue but I must admit I think it might well be an issue that more and more people will have. The piece of plastic that broke off my B1 is literally the size of a finger nail (and about the same thickness) so I agree it’s a weakness that is bound to affect others.

    As it stands at the moment the battery does stay in place (albeit very loosely) and does still power the unit. However I will use gaffer tape to hold it more securely as I feel it could fall out if I’m not extra careful with it.

    Profoto UK have advised me to send the B1 to their service centre in London and “IF” it’s repairable under warranty they will do it. However it’s sad to hear yours wasn’t covered by warranty. Profoto UK said that if I’d dropped it then warranty wouldn’t cover it but the unit wasn’t dropped so I’m hoping they will honour it.

    I’ll be sending my unit to the service centre next week so I’ll let you know how I get on. I’m intending to get a second light soon but (as you say) it would be nice to think the battery housing is redesigned asap.

    Thanks again

    Reply

  • Lorenzo. E. Niehof.

    |

    i hope profoto will upgrade the b1 to newer model. better battery mount build and a complete overhaul the futures it brings, high speed sync for one, faster flash duration with more power output extra

    Reply

  • david

    |

    light equipment is not smart phone, it is impossible to upgrade in such short time.

    Reply

  • Shree

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    Sounds interesting. Ill have to look into the maybe getting a B1 I think. Tx ;)

    Reply

  • Ryan

    |

    Hi guys,

    Just a quick question….

    How many of you use the glass dome’s on your B1s? Personally I’m convinced that most (if not all) of the profoto modifiers need the glass domes, but I’m quite happy be proved wrong.

    Here in the UK they cost the equivalent of nearly $200 so they are aren’t cheap (especially when you drop one as my assistant did) but I do feel they are a must. Am I wrong??

    Reply

    • david

      |

      Hi from Hull,

      I don’t use the dome on my B1’s.
      Though, for me, a standout feature of the B1 is the flush front and protected flash tube.

      That said, I am curious whether the dome makes difference.

      Perhaps a future demo for Jared???

      Reply

  • anders andersson

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    Haven´t gotten my b1´s yet, and would like to know in what respect them domes are necessary?

    Reply

    • kameraguy

      |

      Hi Anders,

      From testing my B1 with a Paul C Buff large parabolic, it’s clear the standard B1 will not disperse the light wide enough to reach the edges. However using the Profoto deep umbrellas it seems fine. So perhaps you won’t need the dome unless you have extremely large modifiers.

      Reply

  • Michael

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    I know this has been asked numerous times, but any news on the hypersync? The end of 2014 is just around the cnr and I have not heard anything positive in this regard

    Reply

  • Milos Jarovic

    |

    Agree completely. Please let’s not lose focus on HSS! For this of us who bought the B1 for this “feature”, we have been waiting patiently. If this does not get released by end of year, I am never buying profoto again. But to be honest, if it does get released by dec 31 to fulfill the obligation, I’m already dissappointed this could not have been disclosed as “ETA spring 2015″. Under promise, over deliver would have been the better approach.

    Reply

  • Dave

    |

    I want to sprinkle a little holiday cheer into the forum. I have really been enjoying my B1s! This is a wonderful product. It completely changes how and where I can shoot with studio-quality light. Studio matching with ambient plates when compositing is very easy with the B1 and modifiers.

    I am anxiously waiting for HSS. It will improve the potential of the B1 greatly when working with moving subjects and ambient light. I also have confidence that the developers are getting the job done, and that we will be shooting at high shutter speeds soon.

    Sometimes I feel like this forum focuses a little too heavily on the negative. It is wonderful to have a place to make our desires for the B1 known. I appreciate that Profoto interacts with us here, and gives us updates from the inside. I celebrate the B1 as a wonderful product that meets my needs very well. I enjoy shooting with my B1s every time I pull them out of the backpack.

    Thank you for making this product Profoto! Thank you for communicating with us on your progress! Happy holidays everyone!

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Dave! Thank you for you positive feedback. It put a smile on our faces in this rainy Monday here in Stockholm, Sweden.

      Reply

    • mark

      |

      I have to agree with your sentiments. I tried to express them here earlier and was basically attacked by those who just can’t wait and feel they’ve been duped.

      And while the end of the year is right around the corner with no word as to whether HSS will be delivered as promised, I’m beginning to feel it may be an endemic problem with the design that is making it near impossible to be implemented. If not, it just seems it’s not rocket science and it would’ve already been done.

      But I agree, it is a great light as is that will only be even better when HSS is implemented, if it ever is.

      Reply

  • Hussam

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    Thanks Dave. I do agree.

    Reply

  • Kameraguy

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    Hi Dave, that is very nicely put. I think we needed to hear that to put things in perspective. HSS is a great feature to have, but should not be the only reason that a B1 is to be used. And no doubt the Profoto engineers are working hard on it. Hopefully they will give us HSS as a Christmas gift :) but if not, I’d rather wait to make sure the feature is perfect.

    Reply

  • Felix

    |

    Hi Rebecca, I found the B1 TTL trigger not performing well with the Canon1DX (works well with 5D3), then I brought it to the local distributor. They lent me theirs while mine was getting fixed and theirs was working flawlessly. At the end they say they would replace mine with a new one which they did last week. Then on my first shoot the same reliability issue occurred again. Is this a known issue or is it just my camera? But the 1Dx works fine with the distributor’s trigger and all other hotshoe eqipments. Anyone could shed some light into the situation?

    Reply

    • david

      |

      a failed controller might lead one to believe the controller was a fault.
      but two “failed” controllers makes the “blame” a little more muddy

      daft as it will sound, try wiggling the controller in the 1DX hotshoe, I sometimes find this necessary with my controller.

      Reply

      • felix

        |

        Would you still be in doubt if we tested 5 or 6 triggers on two different 1Dx today? The problem still exists. Weird.

        Reply

        • david

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          very weird indeed.

          Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Felix.

      Do you know what fireware version you have? Make sure you have the latest, A6.

      Here’s how to check your firware version:

      Press and hold the MODE button (upper
      right) for 10 seconds when the remote is
      turned on. When “Hello” is shown in
      display, release finger from button and
      the firmware version will be displayed.

      http://media.profoto.com/pages/download.php?direct=1&ref=2120&size=&ext=pdf

      Reply

      • Felix

        |

        Thanks for your reply Rebecca. Yes I have made sure my B1, airTTL and 1Dx all installed with the latest firmware.

        I will try to describe the problem here
        Normally, after you make an adjustment on energy level the B1 will take about 0.8sec to respond the change. En you press the shutter at this time the flash normally won’t fire. But after say 0.8sec period, the b1 should trigger fine. Now with the 1Dx, if I press the shutter too soon(within 0.8 sec) the B1 won’t fire just as with all other cameras, but then it will take a much longer time to recover, 5s? 10s? Or it may even stuck for a very long time, unless you make adjustments again or switch to TTL. Even when you do that the B1 would sometimes not respond well. Occasionally it release flash in full power even in brightness condition where it shouldn’t.

        Today at the distributor we tried many units and with their 1Dx we could just easily duplicate this problem.

        In the end I ended up borrowing the distributor’s trigger again for my up coming shoots. This unit came from a different batch and it just works as it should. I guess I will stick to this one until I identify the issue and have a solution to it.

        The trigger and flash works fine with 5D3 or just by itself(not mounted on camera).

        Any thoughts? Could you repeat the test with your 1Dx?

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          Hi Felix. I will forward this and your email adress to our Service Department and they will be in touch with you.

          Reply

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